Grinch 790 xxx
some stories never get stale

12.15.10 Moving Images

In the movie of my life, I'm sitting on the couch in front of the fire watching a movie. I have done this, plus or minus the fireplace—and assorted family members—ever since I can remember. I definitely associate holiday time with watching movies and eating See's. So I thought I might take this opportunity to create a list for you of movies that would make great viewing during all the downtime you'll hopefully be having in the next few weeks. Of course I'm assuming you'll also be doing the requisite skiing and snowshoeing to offset all that lounging and the inevitable onslaught of calories. We've got a light snow cover here and I'm praying for more. I may even learn to ice skate this year! (I am a horrible, knock-kneed skater but G has promised to school me.) Perhaps you feel I've been shirking my duties and not posting enough holiday-relevant recipes. You're not wrong. Blogging has taken a bit of a back seat to the insanity of shopping and wrapping and schlepping. But it's not that we haven't been eating well. Last night there was a delicious salad of fresh Tuscan kale with roasted delicata squash, pecorino and fresh pomegranate.
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Tagged — holiday
Pouring 790 xxx
photos by george billard

12.10.10 Cottage Industry

Around this time every year, our house turns into a veritable hive of activity. Of course there is the requisite wrapping of presents, but mostly it centers around the annual caramel bonanza. There is something about the convergence of salt and sweet and butter and chew (and chocolate) that makes these humble candies so addictive. We pour lots of love into them and send them out into the world as a reminder that something homemade, something from the heart, is the most wonderful gift of all. If you've never made candy, I recommend these as a starting point. All you need is a big, heavy pot, a baking sheet and a candy thermometer. It's a bit like baking in that you need to follow the instructions closely as far as temperature and proportions, but the rest is all stirring and wrapping. Always use the best ingredients because the flavors are quite concentrated. And give yourself plenty of time, because it's best to avoid panic when there is molten caramel around.

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Tagged — holiday

12.2.10 Wrap It Up

Onlineshopping 790 xxx
online shopping is kind of addictive
OK,  a few more suggestions for those of you looking to make your holiday shopping experience painless and effective. Whip up a nice gingery hot toddy, stuff your tootsies into a pair of wooly socks, curl up on the couch with your laptop and chuckle quietly to yourself as you think of all those poor slobs getting elbowed by German tourists at Macy's in Herald Square.
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Tagged — holiday
Toque du chef 790 xxx

11.30.10 Tome After Tome

I'm going to go way out on a limb and assume that, if you're reading this blog, you like to cook; or at least you like reading about cooking. Or maybe you just know someone else who does. At any rate, in a continuation of yesterday's gifting post, I've pulled together some suggestions for wonderful cookbooks—some new, some long beloved—that would make wonderful presents to the accomplished and aspiring chefs in your life (including yourself). I like nothing better than sitting down with something delicious to eat and whatever cookbook I've randomly plucked from my shelf. There are always stacks of cookbooks by my bed. Reading them is vicarious pleasure, inspiration, armchair travel, fantasy and practical preparation. Here's a compendium of some of my favorites, all highly recommended.
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Tagged — holiday
Present 790 xxx

11.29.10 Present Perfect

As obnoxious a concept as is Black Friday—when all of America rushes into the mall, wallets clutched in chubby hands still sticky from the Thanksgiving feast—there is something to be said for getting a jump on your holiday gift shopping. We all know that once that turkey is gone, Christmas and Hanukkah are not far behind. For me, this means the annual frenzy of making caramels, then wrapping and packaging them by the hundreds. As far as other gifts for my nearest and dearest, I look for something personal, something that reflects my relationship with the recipients, that shows I've noticed what they need, what they covet. I try to buy things as I come across them during the year, or at least make a note to myself so I can remember to go back and pick up that perfect little something for my sister or goddaughter. But that doesn't always happen (and I know many of you think it's crazy to even dream of being so organized), so I often turn to online shopping. I can do it in the comfort of my own home, and I don't have to deal with the special hell that is the post office. The key is to start immediately, if you haven't already. Avoid paying extra for expedited shipping and banish the dread, the panic and the shame of sending something lame that arrives late. Because I love you, I'll share some of my secret sources for great gifts.
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Tagged — holiday
Ciabatta stuffing 790 xxx
photo by Sarah Shatz for Food52

11.23.10 The Right Stuff(ing)

Stuffing! What can I say? If you're not still eating at your mother's table, you just want to recreate her stuffing recipe and aren't really interested in anything different. Right? Well, on the off chance that there is someone out there willing to try something new, I'll offer you a few suggestions. There are so many schools of stuffing, from cornbread and sausage to sourdough and sage to sticky rice and water chestnuts. Stuffing reflects tradition and ethnicity perhaps even more than the turkey. And of course there is always the question of to stuff or not to stuff, not to mention m***t versus crispy. Above is the winning ciabatta and chorizo stuffing from Food52's contest last year. It features garlicky cubes of bread with chorizo, shiitakes and sweet potato. Another interesting option is this prune and apple stuffing posted by Amanda Hesser.
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Tagged — holiday
Turkey2 790 xxx
photos by gluttonforlife

11.22.10 Big Bird (The Rest is Gravy)

It's time to talk turkey. Even the most experienced cooks can get a little flustered when it come to roasting such a large creature. Confusion starts with what kind of bird to buy and proceeds through whether or not to brine, to stuff or not, what temp, how long to rest, etc. It's all in pursuit of that deep brown, lacquered skin and meat that is not hideously dry. Some say the sole purpose of gravy is to restore moisture to that breast. There really is no definitive technique for roasting a turkey, although most professional chefs do recommend you cook it until the breast is done, and then cut off the legs and thighs to finish roasting separately while the breast rests. In a neat twist on that, this recipe has you brine the bird whole, then break it down and roast the legs and wings on top of the stuffing. Food for thought.

But most people simply can't abandon the Norman Rockwell image of that intact turkey perched on the carving board in all its golden glory. And for those of you who wish to hew to tradition (my dining companions included), I've gathered a few recipes for success. I've rarely actually been in charge of a turkey, depending as I do on the kindness of others for my Thanksgiving dinner. But some years ago I did make Martha's version with the breast draped in wine-&-butter-soaked cheesecloth, and I recall it being quite delicious. I didn't brine it first—I'm actually not sure that I've ever eaten a Thanksgiving turkey that's been brined! Not everyone is prepared to take that extra step, but I understand it makes an enormous difference. I love to eat the dark meat—and to gob mayonnaise and cranberry sauce on a leftover turkey sandwich—so dryness is not my particular bugaboo, but it looks like we're going the brining route this year.
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Tagged — holiday
Salt 790 xxx

12.11.09 How Sweet It Is

Does candy-making seem way too daunting? Here's a little secret: all it takes is a clip-on thermometer and a tireless stirring arm. (Doesn't even need to be yours!) More than ten years ago, I began making caramels to give away to clients and friends during the holiday season. They've developed quite the rabid fan base and, at this point, I can't really get away with not making them. (Quite a few people have suggested I start a business selling these caramels, but I think, like Haley's comet, their occasional appearance contributes to their coveted status.)
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Tagged — holiday
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