It's a holy trinity. A tempting trifecta. To me there's nothing better than an exquisite balance of sweet and salty with a stealthy infusion of heat to kick it up just enough. It's why I love fresh summer fruit—mango, melon, pineapple, strawberries—macerated with jalapeño or sprinkled with chile salt. And it's the magic behind my all-time favorite caramels, made with chocolate, chile and Maldon salt. That same combination infuses a stellar treat dreamed up by baking maven Dorie Greenspan. Her new business, Beurre & Sel, run by son Josh and staffed in part by my very own sister-in-law (a talented baker in her own right), has been tantalizing tastebuds with cookies both classic and creative. My favorite are the ones that play savory elements (sesame, parmesan, rosemary, cayenne) off sweet ones. Dorie has dubbed these "cocktail cookies" because of how well they complement a drink. I've tweaked her recipe for the cocoa-cayenne cocktail cookies slightly, using gluten-free flour and incoporating the earthy crunch of cocoa nibs, but I think it still it does justice to the original.
Read More...

These are the best ice cream sandwiches. Yes. I know we all have a certain fondness for those semi-industrial rectangular ones we enjoyed as children—with that thin, cakey cookie that sticks to your fingertips, right? But these trump those. These are so big and fat they turn Chipwiches to shame and bring grown men to their knees. These are rustic, hand-hewn beauties. It's about the cookie, sure: melted bittersweet chocolate, best-quality cocoa and semisweet chips make for a lot of rich, fudgy goodness. But what you put between that dark embrace can send you soaring to the heavens. Might I suggest homemade mint ice cream? Or perhaps a creamy vanilla speckled with real seeds and offset with a slather of sweet, sticky cajeta (goat's milk caramel)? We served both on the 4th and I heard no complaints, only soft moans of ecstasy. If you have a big mint patch out back in some shady spot, all the better. I use our spearmint with its subtly cooling, herbaceous flavor, but you can experiment to see what you like. And no, it doesn't taste like toothpaste. By the way, forget the food coloring. The very pale green you'll get is so much more beautiful than that lurid artificial hue.
Read More...

We own 4th of July. That means that friends know not to plan other events because they'll be coming to our house. We always serve pulled pork—if you clamor for it, I’ll post the recipe but otherwise just look it up in Cook’s Illustrated. I prefer the North Carolina style with a vinegar-&-hot-red-pepper sauce, and serve it with classic coleslaw, pickles and cheap white bread. One year I bought lovely brioche buns from Eli's and was informed by my friends from Charlotte that this is a no-no.For dessert? Nothing beats ice cream sandwiches. I’ve been known to make the ice cream myself but I like to offer lots of flavors, so now I usually order a FedEx delivery from Graeter’s, an old-timey place in Ohio that's been doing it right with fresh cream and egg custard since 1870. Mint chocolate chip is my favorite, but don’t miss the caramel or the coconut or the black raspberry. Bake the cookies yourself, though. You can make these in advance and freeze them in large Ziploc bags. And, if you’re lucky (or you make extra), you’ll still have ice cream sandwiches left after the 4th to eat while lollygagging in the hammock…
Read More...