Summer has such momentum to it. All that sunshine and daylight just winds you up and you go, go, go. Then suddenly the light begins to wane and all around things start to curl inward. Where green once predominated, yellow is now creeping in. The goldenrod has exploded, a few sunflowers still remain and the leaves are tinged with jaundice. We cling to the last vestiges of the season, even as we reach for our sweaters, lay the first fire in the hearth and prepare to hunker down. I want to share with you some photos of the garden I took that show the last blooms. And then I'm going to tell you about a rice salad I invented earlier this summer that was a big hit at a couple of different parties. So cheer up, there are good things ahead!
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Angelica, known in some parts as Holy Ghost or Wild Celery, is a member of the genus Umbelliferae, which also endows the kitchen with parsley, carrot, parsnip, fennel, anise, coriander, celery, dill, cumin, lovage and caraway. Its subtly sweet flavor hints at many if not all these sister plants, with prominent notes of licorice and celery. Its botanical name, angelica archangelica, derives from the legend that it was the archangel Michael who told of its medicinal use, and every part of the plant has been prized for centuries for remedies addressing diverse complaints, especially digestive and bronchial problems. The leaves are used for tea; the roots and seeds flavor wine and spirits, including gin, Chartreuse, Bénédictine, vermouth and absinthe; the ground dried root and candied stems are added to baked goods; and the fresh leaves enliven salads, soups, stews, custards and ice cream. A flute-like instrument with a reedy sound can even be made of its hollow stem (entertaining for kids), and I’ve also seen the stems used as straws for drinks.
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I don't care that there's snow on the ground and that more is predicted for tomorrow, I know what I saw this weekend, and I'm not backing down from thoughts of spring. I stepped out onto the front patio on Saturday night and basked in the glow of the super perigree moon, a rare sight that happens only every 18 years or so, when the moon is about 31,000 miles closer to Earth. On Saturday it was not only closer, but totally full, and about 14% bigger and 30% brighter than normal. It shed its monstrously beautiful silver light on me and I asked for its blessing, inspiration and guidance. Kooky? Perhaps. But that day, in honor of the equinox and this moon, G and I had already gone over to our new property in Forestburgh and had a little ceremony to bless the land and imbue it with good intentions. We have such high hopes; it felt good to say them out loud with the waterfall across the lake roaring in the distance and woodpeckers flitting high above in the trees.
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There’s a ginger-colored rabbit that’s been wreaking havoc in the herb garden, snacking on the shiso, decimating the dill and chowing down on my angelica every time it tries to stage a modest comeback. Looks as though I’ll have to give up all hope of pressing this versatile plant into service (or else build a rabbit-proof fence). Angelica lends its delicately sweet, celery-like flavor to liqueurs like Chartreuse and its roots and seeds sometimes flavor gin. Paradoxically, the powdered root is said to cause disgust for liquor. (And thus will not be served in this house!) Angelica root contains vitamin B12, zinc, thiamin, sucrose, riboflavin, potassium, magnesium, iron, fructose, glucose and many other trace minerals. It can be used as a medicinal gargle for sore throats and as a poultice for swellings, itching and rheumatism. Infusions made from angelica are good for the treatment of fevers, colds, coughs, flatulent colic and other stomach disorders. Should you be able to get your hands on some (thanks a lot, Br’er Rabbit!), try this recipe for angelica butter and serve it with grilled fish or atop any steamed summer vegetables.
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