3.6.14 A New Leaf

Chips 790 xxx
photos by gluttonforlife
I have a culinary crush on Alison Roman. She's an editor at Bon Appétit and, lately, so many of the recipes I grativate toward there are created by her. The magazine has a one-page feature towards the front that always showcases a single ingredient—like grapefruit or peanut butter or pomegranate—and several interesting ways to cook with it. In the March issue, it's cabbage and, though all three recipes look great, it was Alison's that really jumped out at me. It's for cabbage chips, an unusual idea and especially timely now that kale chips are wearing a bit thin. (Blasphemy, I know.) Pieces of tender cabbage—you're instructed to use the inner leaves—are roasted in a low oven for a couple of hours. They pass through a slightly stinky phase, when the cabbage wafts a bit of sulphur, and wind up with a sweet, concentrated vegetal flavor and a nice crispy crunch. I devoured these and felt positively virtuous.
Leaves 790 xxx
turn over a new leaf
After all, cabbage is incredibly low in calories, not to mention rich in vitamins, minerals and fiber. If it's not something you keep around, maybe it's time for a re-think. You can stash a head in the back of your fridge for ages and it stays quite fresh. I love it raw and thinly sliced for slaws, sautéed with butter and chiles, chopped and added to soups and even pickled (delicious in quesadillas).
Raw1 790 xxx
prepare for greatness
Do you have this type of wire cooling rack? They're pretty essential for baking, and I also use them for things like drying candied citrus peel and draining fried chicken. You could probably make these chips without one but at least line your baking sheet with parchment. To appy a thin layer of olive oil, I used a silicone basting brush like this one.
Raw2 790 xxx
all laid out
The recipe calls for a sprinkling of toasted caraway seeds, but I took it a step further and ground the seeds into a powder—an earthy, dark seasoning I've become addicted to since creating it for these latkes. Be sparing when you salt the chips, as all the flavors really intensify as they shrink.
Sauce 790 xxx
hit the sauce
Alison recommends dipping these chips in a light sauce of yogurt flavored with fresh dill, garlic and lemon juice. I had only dill pollen and substituted garlic powder for the fresh. You could also stir in a bit more caraway, or really any spices you like, to create a simple dip. Any leftover sauce is excellent drizzled on some roasted eggplant or mixed with chopped cucumber.
Chips2 790 xxx
chip in
It's economical and fun to make snacks at home, especially when they are this healthy and delicious. I'm not sure how long these chips last, or how to best store them, because we ate ours up immediately. Alison, your aim is true.

Cabbage Chips

serves 2
lightly adapted from Alison Roman's recipe in Bon Appétit
  • — 8 tender inner leaves from a large green cabbage
  • — 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • — 2 teaspoons caraway seeds, lightly toasted and ground
  • sea salt & freshly ground pepper
  • — 1 cup plain Greek yogurt
  • — 1 teaspoon garlic powder
  • — 2 teaspoons dill pollen
  • — 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or more to taste

Preheat oven to 200ºF.

Remove the ribs from the cabbage leaves. Cut each leaf into 4 pieces. Divide between 2 wire racks set inside rimmed baking sheets. Brush with olive oil. Sprinkle with ground caraway, a little salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for 2-2 1/2 hours.

Meanwhile, mix together yogurt, garlic powder, dill pollen and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Remove chips from oven before they begin to darken. Cool and eat with the dip.

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Must make these immediately! How long in the oven, approx.?
Maija on March 6, 2014 at 9:03 am —
Oh, sorry about that - the recipe was a bit incomplete. I've fixed it to say the chips should roast between 2 and 2 1/2 hours. Enjoy!
laura on March 6, 2014 at 9:16 am —
Yes! What a fantastic recipe! I always have cabbage in the refrigerator as well but at a certain point the family gets a little tired of it and I'm left with half a head rolling about in the crisper. I'd like to try it with some red I've got, as well. What do you think?
Peggy on March 6, 2014 at 1:16 pm —
I'm sure red cabbage would be equally delicious. A little harder to tell when it's starting to brown, though, so keep a close watch toward the end of cooking.
laura on March 9, 2014 at 12:04 am —
Looks great! What do think about using red cabbage instead? It's my favorite.
Suzinn on March 6, 2014 at 5:18 pm —
See above, Suzinn...
laura on March 9, 2014 at 12:04 am —
Your photos are very tantalising. I shy away from cabbage, except in gado gado, but you make it sound like it's worth a try.
jo / thedesertecho on March 7, 2014 at 9:34 am —
I love cabbage and have been trying to snack on vegetables lately, but I remain skeptical. Never did get understand the allure of kale chips. You said you devoured them! Does that mean that actually taste good? As good as potato chips? As good as barbecue potato chips?!
Andrea Meyer on March 7, 2014 at 10:16 am —
Apples and oranges, Andrea. I think they're delicious, but then I don't like barbecue potato chips...
laura on March 9, 2014 at 12:06 am —
All I have to say is yum, this looks even better than kale chips and the body of the cabbage will hold up to the dip ,double bonus ! I will pick up two heads when doing the st pattys day shopping !
bonnie on March 9, 2014 at 1:03 pm —
These are great and inspired me to do the same with brussel sprouts. Can't use for dipping much but satisfies and surpasses that potato chip need! Love your site.
Rae ilama on March 30, 2014 at 8:13 pm —
Brussels sprouts, really?! Did you pull off all the individual leaves? That sounds amazing!
laura on March 30, 2014 at 9:55 pm —
I've just discovered your blog and so I am going backwards, and have come to this page. My question is this: It's mid-August and I have a few cabbage plants in the back. there is only the most tiny sign of a cabbage forming in the middle, but lots of young leaves that look just like those in picture no. 2. Do you think I could cut those from the plant and try this lovely looking snack?
Antonia on August 8, 2014 at 6:19 pm —
Hey again, Antonia! I think that would probably work fine, but I'm not sure that your developing cabbages don't need those outer leaves for protection. Let me know what happens...
laura on August 8, 2014 at 7:43 pm —