Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add shrimp and cook for about 2 minutes, or until they are bright orange and just cooked. Drain in a colander, then run under cold water until cool. Peel and halve shrimp lengthwise down the center, removing any black vein. Cover and refrigerate.

Meanwhile, toss the carrots, onion, vinegar and sugar together in a small bowl and pickle for 30 minutes.

Cook the rice noodles according to the package directions (generally just soak in very hot water for about 10 minutes). Drain and set aside or chill.

Clear a large work surface for rolling, and prepare a dish that can hold the finished rolls in a single layer. Place all filling ingredients in separate piles or containers and arrange them around the work surface. Have a damp dish towel ready to cover the rolls as you’re making them.

Fill a wide, shallow dish large enough to hold the rice paper wrappers with hot water. Evenly submerge one wrapper for about 30 seconds, or until it is soft and pliable. Remove from the water and place on the work surface.

Lay 2 shrimp halves in a row, cut side up, just above the center of the wrapper. Layer a small handful of the rice noodles over the shrimp, followed by a few bean sprouts, a basil leaf, a sprig of cilantro, a sliver of chile and a tablespoon or so of the pickled vegetables.

If using a round wrapper, fold two sides in and then roll up all the way to enclose everything in a perfect packet. If using the triangular ones, I fold up the pointed end, and then roll the two sides, leaving the top open.

Combine all ingredients in a medium mixing bowl. Stir until well combined, adding hot water as needed to thin the sauce.

Combine ginger, basil, lime leaves and lemongrass in food processor and blend for 20 seconds. Transfer to medium saucepan with 2 cups of water and bring to boil. Remove pan from heat and let steep uncovered 20 minutes. Strain mixture, pressing on solids to release flavored liquid. Discard solids.

Combine liquid in saucepan with condensed milk and coconut milk. Bring to a boil and stir in tapioca. Return to boil, reduce heat to medium and simmer uncovered, stirring frequently, until pudding thickens and reduces, about 30 minutes. Transfer to bowl or individual ramekins, covering with saran wrap pressed gently onto the top. Refrigerate until well chilled, at least 3 hours.

Lightly toast shredded coconut in a small skillet over medium-low heat until golden.

To serve, top with a dollop of crème fraiche and sprinkle with toasted coconut.