Is bigger better? Surely not. But it's nice to eat from every end of the spectrum, from the petite kishu to the gargantuan gigante bean. Though there is something to be said for the sheer meaty size of them, these creamy white beans, also known as gigandes or hija, deliver a lot of sweet flavor. Runner beans of Mediterranean origin—probably Spanish or Greek—you’ll see these on meze or antipasto plates, often coated in a dark orange tomato sauce. In Spain, they are sometimes referred to as judías, a word that also means Jews, though I couldn't find any connection. (Speaking of which, did you see John Galliano's drunken, anti-Semitic rant? Wonder how long Natalie Portman's new Sofia Coppola-directed Dior spot will continue to run...) If you can’t find gigantes, you may substitute limas or any large white bean. Dried beans are a delicious source of fiber and protein at any time of year, since they are as appetizing eaten hot in a soup as they are served at room temp. But until fresh beans are coming off the vine (Happy March, by the way), the dried version can be the centerpiece of many a meal. I do enjoy them in broth, but I think my favorite way to eat beans is cooked until they are very soft and have absorbed all the liquid, drizzled with some spicy green olive oil and sprinkled with crunchy sea salt.

You can flavor beans any way you like; they pair beautifully with other vegetables and with a bit of smoky flavor, from bacon, pimentón or even miso. I do find that beans are almost better the next day, after the flavors have had a chance to meld. Make a big enough batch and you can eat them two days running.

I like to soak my beans overnight and change the water, as this makes them both easier to digest and quicker to cook. Something to remember when cooking any dried beans is to avoid adding acid of any kind until they are already tender. So don’t add any vinegar, wine, citrus juice, tomato product or anything else acidic to the cooking water until your beans are nice and soft as they will then not become beautifully tender no matter how long you cook them.

If you want to add a little extra zip to this dish, whip up some vivid green, herbal pistou, a French version of Italy's pesto, generally made without cheese. Use any herbs you have on hand for this quick sauce that will really enhance your repertoire, as delicious with roast chicken or eggs as it is stirred into soups or beans.