Like other legendary odd couples—Harold & Maude, Oscar & Felix—sweet and salty rub up against each other and achieve a sort of sublime friction. Not exactly opposites, they speak the same language but with very different accents. It's now well-known that the trifecta of sweet-salty-fatty proves virtually irresistible to the human palate, making things like Doritos and kettle corn the equivalent of edible crack. A decidedly much more highbrow—and indeed healthier—precursor that plays with that same equation is the delectable scourtin. A close cousin of shortbread, these crisp, buttery biscuits studded with briny black olives were originally made at Les Vieux Moulins in Nyons, France, an ancient Provençal olive mill. The owner, Jean-Pierre Autrand, shared his family's recipe with Susan Herrmann Loomis, an ex-pat expert on French cuisine. And I'm sharing it with you. For very little effort, you get a truly great cookie whose pitch-perfect sweet-salty flavor goes just as well with a dry martini or a glass of prosecco as it does with a cup of chamomile tea. (Much like these inspired cookies.) Make a batch immediately.
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I’ve been working on a suggested list of pantry staples for you. Everything you need to have on hand so you don’t have to run to the store every time you want to cook something. It’s challenging. Because I cook a lot of ethnic foods, what I consider to be a staple can run to things like coconut milk and Mexican oregano. Stocking your pantry is really about knowing how you like to eat. In fact, it’s a great way to control your diet. If what you have on hand is boxed macaroni and cheese and canned soup, most likely that’s what you’ll be eating. If you're tired and the cupboard is bare, that leads to take-out. No judgment here. I get it. But let me help you figure out how to eat just a little better, how to tempt yourself with healthy treats that can sing the siren song from your fridge. Something like garlic confit is great to have around. It’s simple to prepare—just slow-cook cloves of garlic in fat—and lasts quite a while. Its mild and sweet garlic flavor is perfect on toast or whisked into sauce, salad dressing and pasta. And it's très sophisticated.
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