7.28.10
takashi inoue & jake dickson photos by george billard
The very day the Times gave Takashi a rave review, Dickson’s announced it would be co-hosting a special dinner there, featuring an all-beef menu from a single steer it would supply. As a big fan of Dickson’s, conscientiously-raised beef, Korean barbecue and adventurous eating, I couldn’t really pass up the opportunity. Takashi—the name of the chef and his restaurant—opened in April in Manhattan’s West Village, and seems to be occupying a new space in the city’s dining landscape. The food is in the style of yakiniku, a Japanese version of Korean barbecue that originated in Japan during the Second World War, when many thousands of Koreans were conscripted into the Japanese army and brought to the island to work. Chef Takashi Inoue’s grandmother is Korean and runs a small yakiniku restaurant in Osaka. Takashi came to the United States three years ago to study English, met Saheem Ali—then a theater director, now the restaurant’s general manager—and together they opened this small restaurant. The quality of the meat on offer is fantastic. At the dinner we attended, it all came from one steer that had been provided by Dickson’s. It was a real adventure in nose-to-tail eating, and one that honored Dickson’s fine beef, Takashi’s original cooking, and the magnificent animal that made it all possible. Read the rest of this entry »
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2.5.10
photo by george billard
G went hog wild in Dickson’s this week. Came home with some grass-fed beef stew, these two humongous short ribs (the butcher said they would be better if he didn’t cut them—why?), a couple of squabs, a red cockerel and a Boston butt. Most of it went into the freezer, to be doled out over many weeks, but the short ribs will be featured at dinner tomorrow night. We’ve got a couple of friends coming over. That’s exciting stuff up here in the boonies. I’m trying a new preparation with red miso, mirin and daikon radish. I’ll let you know how it turns out. Usually, I favor a more classic presentation, the one from Suzanne Goin’s Sunday Suppers at Lucques. (Yes, I’m droning on about her again.) I first had these at her Los Angeles restaurant on my 40th birthday. If you’ve never made short ribs, I suggest you start here. They are really quite simple: just a matter of assembling the ingredients, browning the meat and throwing it in the oven for 3 hours. Plan ahead, as these are at their best when you marinate them overnight, cook them, and then let them chill overnight again so you can easily remove all that fat from the pan juices. Trust me, it’s worth a little forethought. So if you want to serve them on Saturday, begin the recipe on Thursday. (It’s all part of my master plan to get you to start thinking about your meals in advance, planning, scheming, daydreaming, balancing your diet and getting into a rhythm of eating well…)
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