Before we go any further, let’s consider how stock differs from broth, often merely a question of semantics. A general consensus seems to be that stock is a relatively clear, unsalted liquid made by slowly simmering bones and sometimes vegetables, which is then used as the basis for sauces and soups. Broth is a simple soup in itself, more highly seasoned than stock and perhaps containing bits of meat. In most recipes the two can be interchanged, though stock is more neutral, with its salinity, strength and seasoning dependent on how it will be used.

Bone broths can simmer almost indefinitely. In the old days there was always a pot of “perpetual broth” bubbling away on the stove, periodically replenished with new bones and more water. This begs the question of skimming, which is recommended for a clear stock but can seem like a hassle to harried home cooks. The good news is that the foamy grey scum that rises to the surface, while visually challenging, is essentially flavorless. It’s comprised mostly of denatured protein that eventually breaks up into tiny particles and disperses throughout the stock, causing it to become cloudy. This happens quickly if stock boils, which is why a very gentle simmer is always preferable. You can simply leave any foam on top to create a film that attracts fat and debris, and can be scooped off further along in the process. This is actually a cleverly improvised variation on the egg-white raft that is the classic technique used for clarifying stocks.

In order to render out all their collagen, beef bones should cook for at least 8-10 hours, or up to 24; poultry can take less time, though Fallon still recommends much longer than the 3-4 hours suggested in many cookbooks. A heat diffuser comes in handy to moderate the flame on a gas stove burner since surprisingly little heat is required to maintain a lazy simmer that bubbles only about once per second. For reductions—concentrated stock and syrupy demi-glâce—increase the heat and let the liquid bubble vigorously. Skim occasionally if possible, and watch the stock turn dark, thick and, eventually, quite syrupy. Reductions can be reconstituted as stock simply by adding water, but in their condensed form they take up very little space.

STOCK TIPS

• Rinse meat and bones well before making stock.

• Always start with cold water, which breaks down proteins and maintains clarity.

• Add something acid (vinegar, wine, tomato) to help break down cartilage.

• Roast or brown bones or vegetables first to add depth of flavor and color.

• Keep separate freezer bags for bones, shells and vegetable scraps to gradually accumulate enough for making stock.

• Freeze stock flat in Ziploc bags.

• Pour reductions into ice cube trays; when frozen, pop out and store in freezer bags.

• Use a shallow pot or skillet to reduce stock more quickly.

• To remove fat, chill stock completely and skim off hardened layer.

In addition to making broths to sip on their own, stocks are essential for truly nuanced and flavorful cooking. Rarely the star of a dish, stocks are the workhorse character actors without whom the show simply can’t go on. The foundation for soups and sauces, stocks can be used almost anywhere in place of other liquids with excellent results. Try them in rice or polenta, to deglaze a roasting pan or to thin a Bolognese. A lamb stew made with lamb stock heightens the intensity of flavor in a way that water and wine alone cannot. Roasting bones and vegetables prior to simmering creates an even richer depth that works well in earthier dishes, but you can also create more ethereal stocks for lighter fare. Next summer, when you’re making corn chowder, use stock simmered from the scraped cobs and swoon over the incredible sweetness. Save your shrimp shells in the freezer until you’ve accumulated enough to make a surprisingly intense stock, ideally deployed in a hearty bisque spiked with sherry and cayenne. 

Much of this information was once acquired as though by osmosis in family kitchens where bubbling pots and rising dough were tended day in and day out. It’s worth keeping alive, if only for pure, greedy pleasure. Reconnect to the tradition of making your own bone broths and stocks and you’ll never look back—except when the mouth-watering aromas wafting from your kitchen conjure up blissful memories of your grandmother’s borscht, your uncle’s pozole, your mama’s Bolognese…

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