I'm definitely a food snob of sorts. I've been known to get all uppity about faux this and that, things masquerading as other things. Margarine. Tofurkey. Miracle Whip. Why bother? (In truth, I once loved Miracle Whip on a tomato sandwich.) But G's digestive issues have made me realize that substitutions are sometimes necessary. And while gluten-free bread may not be worth the bother, certain gluten-free foods are quite nice in their own right. Anyone who's had treats from Babycakes knows what I'm talking about. So it may not come as a total surprise when I tell you that this recipe for a decadent and velvety smooth chocolate mousse is—wait for it—vegan. That's right—no eggs and no cream. I was very skeptical the first time I made this. It's suspiciously easy, requiring absolutely no whipping at all. Various recipes for vegan chocolate mousse had been popping up online, some with avocado, others with coconut milk—I think I even remember one from Jean Georges! This is the one I arrived at after a bit of experimentation.

It combines good quality chocolate—I usually incorporate some Mexican chocolate infused with chile—with silken tofu and a hit of Kalhua, because I find that coffee beautifully accentuates the flavor of chocolate. You melt the chocolate in a double boiler, whizz it in a blender with the remaining few ingredients and chill it for a few hours. You will be astonished by the results which, incidentally, are relatively low in calories and fat. I like to serve this mousse with a topping of candied pumpkin seeds, using this recipe but with powdered ginger and cinnamon for the spices. It's a nice textural counterpoint, but you could also try a little chopped ginger, toasted almonds or a spoonful of crème fraîche (throwing vegan caution to the wind).