Just a month ago, I was waxing poetic to you about wings. If you still haven’t made a batch, I want to urge you to give it a whirl. They’re delightful as an hors d’oeuvre or snack, but they’re also great as the centerpiece of a meal. I know my way is more involved than simply coating them in barbecue sauce and sticking them in the oven, but that doesn’t begin to do them justice. To get the perfect combination of rich, silky meat and crisp, sticky skin, you really need to add in a couple more steps. You don’t need to get all crazy like David Chang, who brines his wings, then poaches them in duck fat, then smokes them and then grills them. Although they’re sublime. I’ll let you skip the smoking step. But brining, poaching and grilling is the way to go. None of it requires much attention, but you’ll snap to when you bite into your winged masterpiece.

wings are a little appreciated bird part, so show them some love

In last month’s post I included a link to a little tutorial on how to take apart your chicken wings; turns out you could only access it if you’re a Cook’s Illustrated subscriber. Which, of course, I am, but you may not be. So here’s a demo I found on YouTube. I use my kitchen shears, but if you have a nice sharp knife it should be that easy. (Try not to look at the guy’s fingernails, hairy knuckles or creepy blue cutting board.) Rinse them, pat them dry with paper towels and lay them out on a baking sheet. Big, sturdy baking sheets like these are your friends in the kitchen. Get you some.

Once you’ve taken apart your wings, you’re going to brine them for a few hours in a salt-sugar solution. Don’t ask questions, just do it. It really does make a difference.

tare looks like an oil slick

David Chang is into tare. He gushes about it in Lucky Peach, as it’s a key component to many of his dishes. Essentially it’s just a sweetened soy marinade that’s used a lot in Japanese cooking. The nice thing about this wings recipe, is that you use the little wingtips (that I would normally toss in a ziploc and freeze until I need them for making stock) to build a flavor base for the tare.

don’t wing it: follow the recipe

You may remember me telling you about poaching my chicken before grilling it for this Thai dish. The same principle is at work here. If the meat is cooked slowly first, you can blast it with high heat for a short time to get that fabulous crispy exterior. Otherwise, so often you wind up with undercooked meat or burnt skin, or worse: both. With this technique and you are guaranteed success. If the idea of poaching in fat (or oil) bums you out (and I don’t think it should), you can substitute a flavorful stock, as I did with the Thai chicken. It’s not quite the same thing, but it works.

these are ume plums, pickled with shiso leaves

To accompany these wings, I made a crunchy slaw that’s packed with tangy flavor. I hit upon the idea when I was trawling through the fridge for Japanese ingredients. I came across a huge jar of pickled ume. These are a species of Asian tree plums that are super popular, often eaten pickled. If you ever see “ume-shiso roll” on the menu when you’re eating sushi, try it! The pickled ume are an incredible combination of sweet-salty-sour that will leave your tongue tingling. Usually they are pickled with shiso leaves which have a distinctive almost minty flavor. Super addictive.

i slaw what you did this summer

The flesh of the pickled plums becomes very soft and velvety, perfect to be whipped into a dressing for this slaw of cabbage, scallions and cilantro. You can throw this together in a matter of minutes. With the wings and maybe a little steamed rice, you have a dinner that will have people licking their fingers…and your feet.

As for the prayer? Let’s each say one to whatever divinity or higher power we turn to in times of distress, to deliver us from our national crisis, to right our government, and to set this country on a path toward greater equity, less poverty and justice for all.

I never was much into wings. My friend Busby always sang their praises when she wasn’t going on about California Pizza Kitchen or Popeye’s fried chicken. They just never seemed meaty enough to me, and I hadn’t yet developed a fondness for eating things off the bone. But G has a passion for wings, and in learning to make them for him, I fell for them. That happens sometimes, doesn’t it? Indifference turns to pleasure and life just gets that much better. Now I understand how succulent, how crispy yet gooey, how caramelized and packed with flavor are these little wings. No wonder they make such great stock. Did you ever sample David Chang’s wings at Momofuku Noodle Bar? I’m not sure he still serves them but they were insane. I think they were poached, then smoked and then finished on the grill. (Here’s an adapted recipe which I may try sometime.) The point is, don’t just throw your wings under the broiler and expect them to be great. They have a fair amount of fat, so one great technique is to poach them first and then finish them in a very hot oven. Marinating them overnight or even for a few hours does wonders. They pair beautifully with strong flavors like garlic, ginger and chile, and a little something to help them caramelize like soy sauce, honey or maple syrup.

note the feline friend lurking hopefully in the background

Wings are very popular with guys. And with kitties. There’s the Buffalo wing, of course, but that’s a bit over the top. Fried and then sauced and then doused with blue cheese? Not my style. I do a version marinated in sherry vinegar, garlic and spicy smoked paprika that is divine. But lately we tried some with ginger and miso that were really good.

i try to recycle ziploc bags over and over

Large Ziplocs are great for marinating because they let you rearrange the wings easily so every surface gets coated. Put the whole thing in a bowl, though, in case of any leaks. Another tip is to line your baking sheet with parchment paper. This makes clean-up much more pleasant. And, finally, for recipes that don’t include a step that uses the wing tips, be sure to save them in your freezer and add them to your homemade stock.

If you haven’t made wings before and are uncertain how to break them down, here is a great step-by-step diagram from Cook’s Illustrated.

Remember that glorious tasso ham we smoked up for the latest Charcutepalooza challenge? (Read all about it here.) Well, I found a classic way to use it that really maximizes its smoky, spicy flavor. I came across a recipe for jambalaya by Chef Paul Prudhomme, the Louisiana legend whose blackened entrees were horribly bastardized by chain restaurants in the 80s. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, “jambalaya” comes from the Provençal word “jambalaia,” meaning a mish-mash or mix-up, and also a pilau (pilaf) of rice. Originally a humble combination of rice and vegetables, it has evolved into a rich expression of local New Orleans cuisine. There are two types of jambalaya: Creole, also known as “red jambalaya,” which contains tomatoes and is usually made with chicken and smoked meat; and Cajun, “brown jambalaya,” without tomatoes, which is more characteristic of southwestern Louisiana. The Creole version, which originates from New Orleans’ French quarter, was undoubtedly influenced by Spanish paella. As saffron was scarce, tomatoes were added for their vibrant color. Ultimately, Caribbean spices and the addition of tasso ham or andouille sausage make this a dish unique unto itself.

tasso ham is a misnomer since it’s actually made from pork butt (aka shoulder)

I admit I strayed a bit from the recipe because I simply cannot bear green peppers. I don’t think I’ve eaten one since about 1985 when I had my last bite of college cafeteria food. This dish did not suffer one bit without their bitter, acrid flavor. What it does have is plenty of aromatics and spice: bay leaves, thyme, sage, white and cayenne peppers, not to mention the peppery rub from the tasso.

i used basmati rice and canned tomatoes

Chef Paul suggests converted rice, but I don’t keep any Uncle Ben’s on hand. Converted rice is brown rice that has been soaked, steamed under pressure, and then dried and milled to a sort of beige color. It’s a bit less starchy than white rice and has more nutrition, but it’s not as slow-cooking as brown. Anyway, I used basmati and the same amount of liquid called for in the recipe (I actually used duck stock), and the results were beautifully fluffy (and not especially “crunchy” as specified). There’s chicken in there, and carrots and celery, but I have to tell you, it’s the tasso that really makes it. It’s got that porky,  low-country, lip-smacking taste. Maybe andouille works just as well, but as of this jambalaya, I’m a tasso convert. This dish is as easy as pie. (Why do they say that anyway? We all know pie crust is a bitch.) For jambalaya, you simply sauté a few things, then mix them up with rice and stock and pop the whole mess in the oven. When you go back an hour later, dinner’s ready. Bon temps rouler!

By the way, I love how he offers this recipe as an appetizer or a main course, and suggests you mold it into portions. What do you think would follow this as a second course? Blackened redfish?

it’s a gorgeous medley of flavors and colors

CHICKEN AND TASSO JAMBALAYA

from Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen

serves 4 as a main course, 8 as an appetizer

Seasoning mix:

2 whole bay leaves

2 teaspoons ground red pepper (preferably cayenne)

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 1/2 teaspoons white pepper

1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 teaspoon rubbed sage

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 pound chopped tasso (preferred), about 2 cups

3/4 pound boneless chicken, cut into bite-size pieces, about 2 cups

1 cup chopped onions, in all

1 cup chopped celery, in all

1 cup chopped green bell peppers, in all

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/2 cup canned tomato sauce

1 cup peeled and chopped tomatoes

2 1/2 cups chicken stock

1 1/2 cups uncooked rice (preferably converted)

Combine the seasoning mix ingredients in small bowl and set aside.

Melt the butter in a 2-quart saucepan over high heat. Add the tasso and cook until meat starts to brown, about 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Add chicken and continue cooking until chicken is brown, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently and scraping pan bottom well. Stir in the seasoning mix and 1/2 cup each of the onions, celery, and bell peppers and the garlic. Cook until vegetables start to get tender, about 5 to 8 minutes, stirring fairly constantly and scraping pan bottom as needed. Stir in the tomato sauce and cook about 1 minute, stirring often. Stir in the remaining 1/2 cup each of the onions, celery, and bell peppers and the tomatoes. Remove from heat.

Stir in the stock and rice, mixing well. Transfer mixture to an ungreased 8”x8” baking pan. Bake uncovered in a 350° oven until rice is tender but still a bit crunchy, about 1 hour. Remove from oven. Stir well and remove bay leaves Let sit 5 minutes before serving.

To serve, mold rice in an 8-ounce cup and place 2 cups on each serving plate for a main course, or 1 cup for an appetizer.

I ended my fast a day early—I just felt ready—and have been eating miso soup, a little quinoa and small amounts of cooked vegetables. It feels good to chew again! So in the end, my jeans are a bit looser but, more importantly, I really feel like I hit the reset button. No more sugar cravings. (Did you know that taking probiotics in the morning helps with that by boosting your body’s good bacteria?) And I am resolved to be kinder to myself in all ways; not by indulging my every whim, but by stopping to consider what I really want, on every level, and not acting on impulse. Does that make sense?

Although I am not eating any animal products yet, I wanted to offer you this easy recipe for chicken legs that I’ve had up my sleeve. It was very loosely inspired by the cooking of Suzanne Goin, who firmly believes in the benefits of marinating and the addition of chile de árbol to practically everything. It’s a simple preparation that’s ideal for a quick weeknight dinner, or to make ahead and take with you for a cold lunch.

a simple marinade of onion, thyme, red chile and vermouth kicks up the flavor

You could customize this recipe by changing the marinade to suit your mood and your pantry. Sherry, garlic and pimentón would be another good combination. Or you could go Asian by using soy, ginger and rice wine vinegar. The point is to infuse some flavor into the meat before cooking. You can either plan ahead and refrigerate your marinated legs overnight, or leave them on the countertop, covered, for four hours or so. Fifteen minutes is not going to do it; but even a couple of hours is OK.

I really like using drumsticks (or thighs) because they have the best flavor. I don’t understand people who prize white meat, especially in a preparation like this. Maybe you haven’t been cooking your chicken long enough? You don’t want to eat dark meat undercooked. It can take more heat and time than the white meat, because it’s got more fat. You simply pop these legs in the oven for about half an hour, broiling at the last minute to crisp up the skin. With a little brown rice (or not) and a salad or some cooked greens, this is dinner. Chutney or sharp mustard would not go amiss.

ROASTED DRUMSTICKS

serves 2 with leftovers

6 organic chicken drumsticks

2 dried chiles de árbol

4 sprigs thyme

1 small onion, thinly sliced

1/4 cup vermouth

sea salt and pepper

Place the chicken in a bowl or shallow dish, crumbling the chile and thyme over, then add onion, vermouth and a generous sprinkling of salt and freshly ground black pepper. Mix this all together with your hands (yes, you can) and marinate overnight in the fridge, or on the counter for up to 4 hours (but not less than 2).

Remove chicken from fridge about 30 minutes before cooking. Preheat oven to 400º. Brush marinade off chicken, discarding onion, chile and thyme. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt. Roast uncovered for 25 minutes, then broil on high until crispy and browned, about 5 more minutes.

In my quest to revisit the culinary tropes of winter one last time before the change of season, it’s time for braising. There’s nothing cozier than a pot of something bubbling gently on the stove (or in the oven) all day long, and it’s a good idea to enjoy the warm, tender, hearty results now, as they’re a far cry from what we’ll be craving when the mercury rises. So before we’re on to spring’s sweet pea risotto and asparagus soup and pickled ramps, are you sure you’ve perfected the art of the braise? It’s all about low and slow, gentle heat breaking things down and building rich, complex flavors. Turns out it’s the perfect way to cook a guinea hen (also known as guineafowl). Never had one? Tastes like chicken. Seriously, this is one gorgeous bird, with its dappled black and white feathers and tiny little head. As you can see, above, its meat is darker than a chicken’s but it’s nowhere near as assertive in flavor as a pheasant or grouse. It’s quite high in protein, but doesn’t have much fat, which makes it a great candidate for braising.

guinea hens eat garden greens and creepy-crawlers

fowl play

I had guinea hen at a friend’s place this fall, and she draped the breast with bacon before roasting it. The whole thing was as dry as leather! Simply coating a fat-deprived cut with fat does little to actually penetrate the meat. You need to baste that thing every 5 minutes, or maybe wrap it in caul fat. Or braise it! Braising calls for liquid but not total immersion. You always put the lid on the pot, so when liquid evaporates, it condenses on the lid and drips back down—a sort of low maintenance basting. Other than that, the only thing you need to remember is that browning is an essential first step for creating a flavor base. A few aromatics, liquid that can be anything from wine to water, and you’re set.

This recipe calls for bacon, but you could use a little ham or pancetta, or neither. You brown the guinea hen on all sides in fat or oil, sautee diced onion, carrot and celery, then add stock and herbs, and you’re good to go. Pop the lid on, turn the heat down low and let it simmer until the meat is falling-off-the-bones tender. I like to pull the meat off the bones, maybe let the sauce reduce down a bit, and then stir the meat back in to create a kind of ragú. This is delicious served with polenta, rice or even pasta.

polenta is a great base for any ragú

GUINEA HEN RAGÚ

serves 4

2 slices smoky bacon or equal amount pancetta, optional

3-4 pound organic, locally farmed guinea hen

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

olive oil

2 carrots, diced

1 celery stalk, diced

1 medium onion, coarsely chopped

3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

3 sprigs fresh thyme or rosemary, stemmed

1 cup dry red wine

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 cups water

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

You can either cut the guinea hen into pieces or cook it whole. Either way, season it generously with salt and pepper.

In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, heat a tablespoon of olive oil and brown the bacon. Remove bacon from pan and brown the guinea hen on all sides. If you are not using bacon, simply brown the hen in olive oil. Remove to a plate.

Add carrots, celery, onion, garlic, herbs, a teaspoon of salt and another glug of olive oil if you need it. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables start to brown, about 10 minutes.

Add wine and tomato paste, stirring to dissolve paste. Bring to a boil, then add guinea hen, bacon, if using, and 2 cups of water. Turn heat down so pot gently simmers. Cover tightly and braise in oven until meat is very tender, about an hour. Meat should fork easily from bones when done. Remove pot from oven, and take guinea hen out, resting on a plate or in a bowl to cool.

When cool enough to handle, pull meat from bones in large chunks, discarding skin and bones. If you like a smoother sauce, you can puree vegetables and braising liquid in a food processor. If not, it will be a bit chunkier and looser. Return sauce and meat to pot, adding a little more water as needed and salt to taste, and bring to a low simmer. Cover and cook on lowest heat for another 30 minutes to allow flavors to meld.

Remove from heat and stir in parsley. Serve over rice, polenta or pasta, or cool and refrigerate for up to 5 days; you can also freeze this for up to 6 months.

DOUBLE BOILER POLENTA

I find this method works quite well; you don’t have to be stirring it constantly and I usually don’t have to cook it for as long as this recipe says. For creamier polenta, increase the liquid by about one-third.

3 parts liquid to 1 part cornmeal – liquid can be water, broth, buttermilk or a combination)

1 cup cornmeal yields about 4 cups polenta, which is enough for about 4 people

Have your double-boiler and a whisk handy. In a saucepan, bring the amount of liquid needed for cooking the polenta to a boil. Meanwhile, fill the bottom part of the double-boiler with water and bring to a lively simmer. Place the cornmeal in the top part. Whisk the boiling, measured liquid into the bowl, whisking until any lumps disappear. Seal the bowl with foil or a lid and set it over the simmering water. Cook 1 1/2 hours.

During the first 20 minutes, stir polenta several times. Then stir only every 20 or 30 minutes, tasting for salt. Replenish simmering water as necessary. Taste polenta for bitterness and tenderness, cooking another 30 minutes if necessary. For serving polenta soft, it can be held over hot water for up to 3 hours. Or spread the polenta in an oiled shallow pan, or in a loaf pan, cool, cover, and refrigerate up to 5 days.

This past weekend G and I attended a workshop about raising chickens. It’s something we’ve been daydreaming about for a while, because we’ve long enjoyed the delicious eggs from River Brook Farm. And because we could really use the poop to fertilize our garden. So we signed up to learn about this ancient enterprise from Mark and Barbara Laino at Midsummer Farm in Warwick. This amazing couple is into organic, sustainable farming; they grow vegetables and herbs, raise animals, and hold down full-time jobs. Barbara is also a holistic nutritionist, and I was thrilled to see several pages of egg recipes from Nourishing Traditions (one of my bibles) in the packet they send home with you.

nutrition-packed eggs are one big reason to raise your own chickens

heirloom chickens are so beautiful

Are we going to run out and get us some chickens? Not so fast. This may have to wait until we build on our new property. It’s not that a small chicken coop takes up that much space, but it does require adequate fencing and caretakers that don’t go away for more than a day or two at a time. We’ll have to give this some thought.

cock of the walk

You don’t actually need a rooster to raise chickens. They are incredibly impressive though, very butch and very in charge of looking out for the ladies. They give a specific cackle if a hawk is cruising overhead, and all the gals immediately run for cover.

part of the harem

Free range chickens eat all sorts of grass and herbs and bugs (and even mice and frogs, apparently!) that create much more nutritious eggs with deep orange yolks. Here are some statistics I pulled from Mother Earth News:

Compared to factory farmed eggs, free range eggs have up to 6 times more vitamin D; 1⁄3 less cholesterol; 1⁄4 less saturated fat; 2⁄3 more vitamin A; 2 times more omega-3 fatty acids; 3 times more vitamin E; and 7 times more beta carotene.

the incredible, edible, farm-raised egg

At this point, “Organic” and “Free Range” labels are essentially meaningless. Even “Certified Humanely Raised” is a bit questionable. You may begin to see some labeled “Animal Welfare Approved.” This has the highest animal standards of any third-party auditing program. The birds are cage-free and continuous outdoor perching access is required. They must be able to perform natural behaviors such as nesting, perching and dust bathing. Beak clipping is forbidden. You may not be able to find these eggs in supermarkets yet, but be on the lookout. Otherwise, farmers markets are really your best bet. I know they are more expensive, but nothing beats a good egg.

TORTILLA ESPAÑOLA

adapted from Gourmet, 2000 (with some authentic tips from my Spanish friend Naima)

serves 4-8, for tapas or lunch

1 1/2 cups mild olive oil

2 1/2 pounds boiling potatoes (like Yukon Golds), peeled and cut into 1/3″ dice
2 medium onions, diced

2 thinly sliced leeks, white and pale greenparts only
1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
10 large farm-raised eggs

Heat oil in a heavy, well-seasoned 12″ skillet over moderate heat until hot but not smoking and add potatoes, onion, and half of salt. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are very tender but not colored, about 45 minutes. Drain vegetables in a large colander set over a bowl and cool 5 minutes.

Lightly beat eggs in a large bowl. Gently stir in vegetables along with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, remaining sea salt and pepper to taste (not too much), and let this rest for about 10 minutes.

Return 1 tablespoon olive oil to skillet and add eggs, pressing potato mixture down to be flush with the eggs. Cook over low heat (you don’t want the bottom to brown), covered, 12 to 15 minutes, or until almost set. Turn off heat and let stand, covered, 15 minutes. Shake skillet gently to make sure tortilla is set on bottom and not sticking to skillet. Invert tortilla onto a large flat plate and slide back into skillet, bottom side up. (If top is still quite loose at this point, slide tortilla onto plate first. Cover it with skillet and then invert tortilla back into skillet.) Round edge with a rubber spatula and cook over low heat, covered, 15 minutes more, or until set. Slide tortilla onto a serving plate and serve warm or at room temperature. (I also like to cold from the fridge.) It’s delicious with a little homemade mayonnaise.

I’m a terrible friend. I’ve been horribly remiss in preparing you for the grand holiday feast. I’m (sort of) ashamed to admit that I don’t have a backlog of my own recipes and accompanying photos to offer you here, so I’m going to do another of my motley compendiums. Above is the roast leg of lamb with garlic sauce that I will be serving my sister and niece on the first night of their visit. Here’s the recipe. It looks pretty easy and, as a recent convert to lamb, I’ll be sticking my thermometer in and not trusting my own instincts. I recommend you do the same. On the side there will be a rich and buttery puree of celeriac and potato—do you really need a recipe? Oh hell, here’s one. (I think I’ll use buttermilk instead of the cream, though.) Also a simple arugula salad with a light champagne vinaigrette. For Christmas Eve dinner, we’re invited to some friends’ home for paella. I’m in charge of dessert; more on that another day. Inspired? Here’s a slew of good-looking paella recipes.

On Christmas proper, we’ll be roasting up a small, grass-fed goose we got from our friends at River Brook Farm (they don’t have a website; too busy farming). I’m going to use Lidia Bastianich’s recipe, but with apples and turnips instead of that whole weird pasta thing she’s got going on. There will be red cabbage with caraway on the side. Really, you need a recipe for that? OK, here. For dessert, I can’t wait to try this steamed molasses pudding with a rich vanilla sauce. I have a vintage pudding mold I’ve been dying to use. Fingers crossed.

photo by sara shatz for food52

Other options? Back in the day, at my mother’s house in Santa Cruz, I was known to whip up a Christmas roast beef with Yorkshire pudding. Horseradish cream on the side. It looks quite glamorous but is dead simple. And there’s something so satisfying about pouring the eggy batter into the hot fat where it sizzles and puffs into wonderful, custardy goodness. I don’t think you can go wrong with this recipe from Saveur magazine.

Another of my mother’s favorites was a crown roast of pork. It makes for an incredibly elegant and dramatic presentation, and all you really need to do is sweet-talk your butcher and then pop the thing into your oven. This recipe has you fill the roast with a lovely bread stuffing. A gorgeous chutney and a crisp salad of bitter greens would round out this meal beautifully. (For the love of god, don’t put those absurd paper frills on the ends of the bones!)

Not doing meat these days? May I humbly suggest my recipe for a whole dorade baked in a salt crust? It, too, makes for a lovely presentation and constitutes much lighter fare.

Still searching for recipes? Feel free to ask me a specific menu question and I will do my best to help out. Or surf around on the Epicurious, Food52 or Saveur sites, where there are countless creative ideas for culinary celebrations. And please, please, drop me a little line in the comments section and tell me your plans…

a hot pink watermelon radish

I don’t want to harsh your mellow, and I do know that Thanksgiving is a special day, a time to throw caution to the wind and loosen your belt, but I just read that “more than half of Americans will have diabetes or be prediabetic by 2020, at a cost to the US health care system of $3.35 trillion, if current trends continue unabated.” Staggering, no? What trends does this refer to? Too much processed food, too much sugar, too much fat. So I’d like you to reconsider all those cream-laden dips and greasy chips that seem to be so popular for snacking on before the big turkey feast. All those cheese plates and fistfuls of roasted nuts that go so well with the wine and cocktails you’ll inevitably be knocking back. Look, I’m no killjoy. I want you to indulge! But I also want you alive and healthy and fitting into your skinny jeans. So ponder some of these options, starting with a plate of fresh, crunchy, spicy watermelon radishes—in season now!—irresistible when sprinkled with some Maldon sea salt and maybe drizzled with a little green olive oil. That’s a great way to really wake up your palate.

a little cup of butternut squash soup is so chic

I believe I already suggested you pass mugs or little vintage tea cups of soup to all those hungry people hanging around the kitchen. Try this smoky, cheesy celeriac soup; or this spicy yam soup with a sweet hit of peanut butter; or this butternut squash soup (but leave out the cream and substitute a little tangy feta for the garnish).

Prefer something more cool and refreshing? Let your guests help themselves to a bowl of this delicious Brussels sprout salad, tangy with red onion and sharp pecorino.

Insisting on a dip? Here’s a recipe for one of my favorites, a highly flavorful combination of walnuts and roasted garlic, from the former Lever House. Serve it like they did, with a soft flatbread, or with breadsticks, fennel and carrots.

LEVER HOUSE WALNUT AND GARLIC TAPENADE

makes about 1 ½ cups

5 cloves garlic confit (recipe follows)

1 cup walnut pieces

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

2/3 cup mild olive oil

sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper

2 teaspoons fresh chervil or Italian parsley leaves

1 teaspoon fresh marjoram or oregano leaves

Combine the roasted garlic, walnuts, and vinegar in a food processor and pulse several times to make a coarse paste. Alternatively, the tapenade can be made by hand in a large mortar and pestle, with some elbow grease.

Slowly drizzle in the oil and pulse a few more times to emulsify. Season with salt and pepper. Fold in the herbs by hand. The walnut and garlic tapenade may be served immediately or covered and refrigerated for up to a week. Bring the tapenade to room temperature before serving.

ROASTED GARLIC CONFIT

1 cup peeled garlic cloves

olive oil, to cover the garlic (about 2 cups)

Preheat the oven to 325F.

Put the garlic cloves in a single layer in a small baking pan. Pour in enough oil to cover the garlic completely. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes or until the cloves are soft. If they’re not quite done after 30 minutes, continue to cook, checking at five-minute intervals, until the garlic is creamy and completely tender. Be sure that the garlic does not brown or, worse, burn. Cool the roasted garlic in the oil before straining.

Feel you must offer something spreadable? How about my wildcard-winning recipe for Tuscan Chicken Liver? It was chosen during last year’s Food52 competition, will be published in their first cookbook and was also included this week among their top-10 picks for holiday starters. It’s not like grandma’s but—dare I say it?—it may be better. Enriched with wine, capers, anchovy, sage and parmigiano, this is seriously addictive. (Please source your chicken livers wisely.)

better than bubbe’s?

OK, OK, you say you have to offer something truly decadent? I’ve got a real flavor bomb for you. Just don’t let anyone eat more than a couple of these babies. Even though they’re far better for you than Lay’s with onion dip, there’s a reason they’re called Devils on Horseback.

gotta date?

These cheese-stuffed, bacon-wrapped dates explode in your mouth with the perfect balance of sweet, salty, umami, creamy and crunchy. Some people substitute an almond for the cheese, and they’re pretty good like that, too. Popular at swank cocktail parties in the ’60s, these have enjoyed quite a comeback, including appearing on the menu at AOC, Suzanne Goin’s tapas-style restaurant in Los Angeles.

DEVILS ON HORSEBACK

(Bacon-Wrapped, Cheese-Stuffed Dates)

serves 10

20 1 x 1/4″ sticks Parmigiano-Reggiano

20 pitted dates (preferably Medjool)

7 bacon slices, cut crosswise into thirds

20 wooden toothpicks

Place oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 450°F.

Stuff 1 piece of cheese into each date, then wrap 1 piece of bacon around each date, securing it with a pick. Arrange dates 1 inch apart in a shallow baking pan covered with foil.

Bake 5 minutes, then turn dates over with tongs and bake until bacon is crisp, 5 to 6 minutes more. Drain on a paper bag or parchment. Serve immediately, but warn guests that these are molten inside and to proceed with caution!

in all its glory

It’s time to talk turkey. Even the most experienced cooks can get a little flustered when it come to roasting such a large creature. Confusion starts with what kind of bird to buy and proceeds through whether or not to brine, to stuff or not, what temp, how long to rest, etc etc. It’s all in pursuit of that deep brown, lacquered skin and meat that is not hideously dry. Some say the sole purpose of gravy is to restore moisture to that breast. There really is no definitive technique for roasting a turkey, although most professional chefs do recommend you cook it until the breast is done, and then cut off the legs and thighs to finish roasting separately while the breast rests. In a neat twist on that, this recipe has you brine the bird whole, then break it down and roast the legs and wings on top of the stuffing. Food for thought.

But most people simply can’t abandon the Norman Rockwell image of that intact turkey perched on the carving board in all its golden glory. And for those of you who wish to hew to tradition (my dining companions included), I’ve gathered a few recipes for success. I’ve rarely actually been in charge of a turkey, depending as I do on the kindness of others for my Thanksgiving dinner. But some years ago I did make Martha’s version with the breast draped in wine-&-butter-soaked cheesecloth, and I recall it being quite delicious. I didn’t brine it first—I’m actually not sure that I’ve ever eaten a Thanksgiving turkey that’s been brined! Not everyone is prepared to take that extra step, but I understand it makes an enormous difference. I love to eat the dark meat—and to gob mayonnaise and cranberry sauce on a leftover turkey sandwich—so dryness is not my particular bugaboo, but it looks like we may be going the brining route this year.

into the brine

Consider this recipe for juniper-brined roast turkey, here.  Use this recipe for the brine. As an alternative, there’s the notion of a dry brine, which means simply massaging the bird with citrus-infused salt as in this recipe, from sausage king Bruce Aidells. The Martha Stewart recipe that requires the cheesecloth calls for the turkey to rest overnight in this spice-infused Riesling brine. I think you’d have good results with any of these.

As for the question of what sort of turkey to buy: you know the answer, and it ain’t an artificially plumped up, corn-fed Butterball that’s jacked up on hormones and probably been frozen for the better part of a year. PLEASE splurge on an organic bird, if not one of the harder-to-find heritage breeds that require you to pre-order months in advance. I found this site which I thought looks pretty interesting. This year, our bird is from Dickson’s, where you still may be lucky enough to find one by showing up right when they open on Wednesday.

Now, for the gravy. Most people like to make stock from the neck and giblets (no liver, please, it’s too strongly flavored) while the turkey roasts. Then use that with some pan drippings and flour to make a rather thick sauce. This recipe from Cooking with Drew looks like it improves upon that and makes a rich, deeply flavorful gravy. Please make your own stock! And here’s my recipe again for the sherry-spiked gravy that I posted last week. Instead of the bacon, you can substitute pan drippings from your roast turkey. For another option, here’s the winning recipe from Food52′s gravy contest. It’s actually a vegetarian gravy that nevertheless promises lots of flavor and none of the hassle of wrestling with the turkey drippings at the last minute. The runner-up was this cider-sage gravy, lightly perfumed with the sweetness of apples.

cider-sage gravy from chrisandamy on Food52

My personal favorite, however, is a gravy recipe taught to me many, many moons ago by my friend Angel. You line the bottom of your roasting pan with a thick layer of garlic, onions and shallots and set your turkey on that instead of a rack. When the turkey is done and you’ve removed it to a carving board to rest, you simply puree the whole lot of it in a food processor—fat, brown bits and all. The vegetables absorb every bit of the gooey goodness of the drippings, making an unbelievably thick, sweet, oniony sauce that I find totally irresistible. It usually needs a bit of stock to thin it out, a little sherry to balance the flavors, and lots of black pepper and sage. Depending on how much you have salted your turkey, you may not need to add any to this gravy. It’s so easy, uses no flour, and you wind up with tons of it.

One caveat: I understand that when you brine the turkey, the drippings are extremely salty. This may mean that this gravy recipe won’t work. We’re planning to take the additional precaution of quickly blanching our turkey after brining but before roasting, which is supposed to leach out much of the salt. Fingers crossed. (And we’re making another gravy recipe as well.)

EXTREME PAN GRAVY

makes about 4 cups

I’m really just guestimating on the number of vegetables; you can use more or less, depending on the size of your pan, your turkey, etc.

8 yellow onions, peeled and quartered

18 shallots, peeled and halved

3 heads garlic, peeled and separated into cloves

1-2 cups stock, preferably turkey (made from the neck and giblets) or chicken

¼ cup dry sherry, or to taste

10 fresh sage leaves, very finely minced

1/4-1/2 cup light or heavy cream, optional

freshly ground black pepper

Mix together the onions, shallots and garlic and spread them on the bottom of your roasting pan. Place turkey on top and roast according to your recipe.

When turkey is done, remove pan from oven and place turkey, lightly covered with foil, on a platter or cutting board to rest. Using a slotted spoon, remove cooked vegetables and puree in batches in food processor, adding stock as needed to move the puree.

Place puree in heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat and thin with additional warm stock to get your desired consistency. Stir in sherry, sage and cream, if using. Season to taste with freshly ground black pepper and salt, if needed.

For a quick and easy weeknight dinner, may I recommend the duck breast? I never really thought I liked duck breast, finding it rather too pink and chewy for my taste. But then G taught me how to sear the bejesus out of it in a hot cast iron skillet, finish it in the oven, and serve it in thin, juicy slices topped with a bit of crisp skin. Accompanied by a pile of tangy sauerkraut and some greens dressed with a walnut vinaigrette, you’ve got an admirable meal on the table in 20 minutes. Another thing that goes especially well with duck is any sort of fruit chutney you might have hanging around.

photo by gluttonforlife

I heat a few of these pickled plums in a small skillet and spoon them over the duck just before serving—divine! If you don’t have these on hand (but you should, they’re a snap to make and the last of the season’s plums are crying out to be preserved), you can warm plum (or any other fruit) chutney or even jam with a couple of tablespoons of balsamic vinegar for a similar effect.

SEARED DUCK BREAST WTH PICKLED PLUMS

serves 2

2 duck breasts (halves), skin on and off the bone

6 pickled plums (or jam/chutney and balsamic vinegar)

sea salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 350.

Salt and pepper the breasts generously on both sides. Meanwhile, place a large cast iron or other heavy skillet over high heat. When it’s piping hot, place the duck breasts in, skin side down and sear well, about 4 minutes. Turn and sear the other side, about 3 minutes. Then remove to a roasting pan and place in the oven for about 8 minutes. (You can strain and save the duck fat in a little glass jar. It’s wonderful for frying potatoes.)

While the duck is roasting, heat the pickled plums in a small skillet over medium heat, allowing them to dissolve a bit. If you’re using jam or chutney, heat about 4 tablespoons with a tablespoon or two of balsamic vinegar.

Remove duck from oven, slice thinly and drizzle with warm plum mixture.