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Mistress Gadget

12.13.10
photos by gluttonforlife

There’s nothing especially hi-tech about any of these tools. In fact, most of them are quite rudimentary and have been around for ages. It’s surprising how little you really need to get by in the kitchen. With a sharp knife, a good pair of tongs, a wooden spoon and the will to succeed, there’s not much you can’t accomplish. And yet people accrue all manner of nonsense: garlic presses, panini machines, immersion blenders. Just visit a Williams-Sonoma if you don’t know what I’m talking about. Even the 5 pieces above—tiny whisk, mezzaluna, reamer, shears and microplane grater—might be seen as superfluous by some kitchen minimalists, and could probably be replaced by a fork and the aforementioned tongs and sharp knife. Still, these are some of my staunchest allies, helping me make short work of countless tedious prep tasks. If you don’t own them all, perhaps you should. Read the rest of this entry »

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{Eating, Garden, Health, Travel}

More Carrot, Less Stick

11.11.10
photos by gluttonforlife

Ever since I ate the carrot-and-avocado salad at ABC Kitchen, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new Manhattan bastion of “farm-to-table” cuisine, I’ve rekindled my passion for this most common root vegetable. Fear not, I will soon be posting my interpretation of this salad, which involves coating the carrots in a light film of cumin, chile and lemon juice before roasting them to tender perfection. It’s truly extraordinary how they become almost meaty. But this is about another carrot salad. It’s not wholly unlike the one you’ll be presented with at virtually every meal in Morocco, though that tends to be sweeter, more cumin-intensive and full of raisins. This carrot salad I encountered on a visit to Smitten Kitchen, a delightful blog enjoyed by me and about a hundred thousand other people (no, I’m not jealous), and I’ve been putting off making it because I wanted to first make harissa, a North African spice paste that is one of its key ingredients. I could have just bought some harissa—it’s easy enough to find in specialty grocers or online. I’ve even been hoarding a little pile of the ultra-hot Thai chiles we grew this summer to make it with. But yesterday, poking around in the fridge for something to turn into a quick, late lunch for G and me, I came across some gorgeous red carrots from the farm, remembered that I had seen a big bunch of mint in the yard hardy enough to defy the frost, and was seized with the desire to make spicy carrot salad now. With no harissa on hand, I punted.

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Another Round?

10.6.10
photos by gluttonforlife

I guess you can’t call them ice cubes if they’re round, huh? If you’re not already familiar with the craze for super-large blocks of ice in cocktails, let this be your introduction. Although I’m no expert in the matter, I believe this concept originated with the Japanese. Let’s face it, from tea to little girls’ undies, no one takes a fetish further. For them, it was all about the ultimate glass of whiskey. The way to drink it cold but undiluted was poured over a large, perfectly spherical and very-slow-melting ice ball. In an aggressive but skilled fashion, Japanese bartenders—and some local copycats—actually carve them out of solid blocks of ice. (If you doubt me, see here.) For a slightly less dangerous approach, with strikingly similar results, you can simply use Muji’s spherical silicone mold. The countless “Penicillin” cocktails I’ve enjoyed at Momofuku Ssam—and also recreated at home—finally convinced me to try the big ice thing. At Momofuku they use blocks, but these round ones work just fine. They’re about 3 inches in diameter. Read the rest of this entry »

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Dry Spell

3.23.10
photo by george billard

Flour sacking towels are truly indispensable. I like these from Williams-Sonoma which I doubt are cut from actual flour sacks any more, but are made of a very absorbent unbleached organic cotton that is lint-free. They have an almost gauzy quality that I love and makes them very handy for myriad household tasks. I’m sure our great-grandmothers were doing all sorts of things with kitchen towels like these: drying dishes, polishing glassware, straining foods and covering rising dough. I also love to tie one around my waist as a makeshift apron. When they get a little dingy, torn up or stained, I transfer them to the “rag basket” under the sink and use them to mop up spills, for dusting and general cleaning. I use fewer paper towels this way, and find that these simple towels are super functional and incredibly handy. Get you some.

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{Eating, Home}

Chinoiserie

1.10.10
chinoisphoto by george billard

I once read somewhere that were he to come back as a kitchen tool (literally), David Chang would want to be a chinois. So called because of it’s alleged resemblance to the straw hat worn by the Chinese, the chinois (or chinoise) is an elegant little device that will elevate your sauces and soups to a new level of sophistication. This conical sieve with an extremely fine mesh is used to strain out the very smallest particles from custards, purees, soups and sauces, thus producing a smooth, velvety texture. It’s a rather expensive tool, not to be confused with the cheaper “China cap,” which has much larger holes. The chinois usually comes with a dowel that looks a bit like a pointy pestle, which is what you use to work soft foods through the mesh. It lets you easily press every last bit of juice and flavor from the solids. Some chinois come with a stand that is useful for holding it upright over a pot or bowl. Try using your chinois next time you’re making stock, pureed soup, jelly or custard. You will be shocked (pleasantly) by how refined the texture becomes and, because you can press on any remaining solids, you will notice a deeper, more intense flavor. Read the rest of this entry »

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Sticky Situation

1.5.10
steamerphotos by george billard

As we become better acquainted, I hope to impart to you my love for Indian and Southeast-Asian cooking. I guess the first thing I would tell you is that you need to have a good source for ingredients. Many ethnic markets also carry requisite cooking tools, such as this sticky rice steamer you can pick up at almost any Thai market. Often, they’ll even have a selection of mortars and pestles (mortar and pestles?), a tool which comes in handy prepping this type of food. In New York City*, I recommend a visit to the Bangkok Center Grocery in Chinatown, on Mosco Street between Mott and Mulberry. First of all they are the nicest people in the whole world and will always greet you with “Sawat dee.” And then they have a wicked green papaya salad that you will take home and be unable to stop eating even when your lips are burning off. They also carry hard-to-find fresh produce, like wild lime leaves. (I do not like to say “kaffir,” as it is a derogatory word similar to “nigger.”) Stock up on some cans of curry paste (the Masaman is flawless, served with a cucumber relish—recipe soon, I promise) and of coconut milk, and grab a bottle of fish sauce and you are in business for an easy, quick and delicious meal. You can simply follow the instructions on the can! I have gone to the effort of making my own curry pastes and, though they are quite good, I can’t really say they’re any better than the Maesri brand. Read the rest of this entry »

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Put ‘em Up

12.26.09
mitts1
photo by george billard

What better day than Boxing Day to tell you about these silicone mini mitts over which I have been obsessing? These nubby little grippers are truly a perfect design. So far I’ve only seen them here, made by a company called Dexas. I love that they’re available in 5 colors. They’re sold singly, but I recommend you get a pair. Mine have put my leather potholders from the Demon (aka Dean & Deluca) totally out of commission. Just be sure you wear the mitts properly, with your thumb in the shorter part, otherwise things can get a little awkward.


I can’t think of how to work this in gracefully, but I have to mention the death of Vic Chesnutt. In the words of his friend and supporter, Michael Stipe, “We’ve lost a great one.” An overdose of muscle relaxants put Vic into a coma earlier this week, and he died yesterday at the age of 45. An incredibly talented musician and poet, he had pondered suicide even before a car accident (he was driving drunk) left him paralyzed at 18 (though, amazingly, he still managed to play guitar). Vic was recently interviewed by Terry Gross on NPR’s Fresh Air; listen to the man and his music here. Or go online and find his song, Flirted With You All My Life, off his album At The Cut. It’s a beautiful expression of his conflicted yearnings for death. Among other things with which he struggled (depression, alcohol, drugs), Vic was apparently also dealing with a lot of debt incurred from his medical expenses. When will that refrain cease to haunt us? Thanks for staying with us as long as you did, Vic Chesnutt. May you rest in peace.

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{Eating, Health}

Joy to the World

12.25.09
donabephoto by george billard

Seven years ago, I made a Christmas picnic on top of the bed where my then-husband lay dying of cancer. He was home for the holidays, having just been released from the hospital after undergoing major surgery to remove a part of his spinal column that was infested with tumor. He was grateful just to be able to lie in his own bed and wolf down some foie gras on toast. (He was quite possibly the original glutton for life.) My gift from him that year was a watch, and I remember being painfully aware of the irony. On its face, I would measure the last moments of his life.


I could not have imagined then what my own life would become. That I would discover a new fulfillment and joy, that I would marry again, seemed impossible at the time. But we must find a way to forge ahead, to believe in possibility and renewal. Read the rest of this entry »

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Grindhouse

11.7.09

mortar&pestle


You can really connect with your inner cave woman when using a mortar and pestle. Or maybe it will take you back to Baba Yaga, that terrifying witch of childhood fables who flew around in a mortar, using her pestle as a rudder. There’s something very primal about this kitchen tool, although you can see that the one I have, above, is pretty civilized. I also have a deeper one made of cement that I use for making papaya salad Thai-style, and a small wooden one I use for crushing herbs. Some people like to use a traditional Mexican molcajete for guacamole, although I prefer squishing the avocado in my hands. And real pesto aficionados always rely on a mortar and pestle. They are available in a wide range of materials, from porcelain to marble. My point is, your kitchen shouldn’t be without one. Any time you need to smash or pulverize anything, in smallish quantities, your mortar and pestle will give you greater control than a spice grinder or food processor. Use it to make spice mixes and salt blends, to crush peppercorns, mix compound butters, make a garlic-salt paste, and on and on. Read the rest of this entry »

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What a Tool

7.29.09

muddler

sorry for the lame photo

A muddler is a handy bar tool, used like a pestle to mash (aka muddle) fruits, herbs or spices in the bottom of a glass. This helps release and meld their flavors, the better to infuse your drink. It’s kind of essential for an authentic mojito or caipirinha or mint julep. (It also comes in hand for beating back sneaky individuals who are constantly trying to filch tidbits off your cutting board.)  This video from Chowhound takes a pretty authoritative stance on how to properly use this smashing tool. I own the above version which I’m not that thrilled with because there is some sort of finish or varnish on it that comes off (into my drink?) so I suggest you find a naked wood one or maybe a metal one but maybe not one made of plastic when you make this classic mojito… Read the rest of this entry »

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