carnaroli rice

Risotto is one of those dishes that have been made to seem intimidating: all that stirring! the right rice! the stock! Newsflash: it’s overrated. Not its deliciousness, that’s indisputable, but its difficulty quotient. You simply assemble the right ingredients, have the patience to hang around the stove for 25 minutes or so, and you wind up with a rich, creamy bowl of goodness that works with so many different flavors. As for the right ingredients, it’s really about the rice. A long-grain white rice is what you need for a classic risotto (although farro and barley make interesting variations), such as Arborio, Vialone Nano and Carnaroli, known as the “caviar of rice.” Riso Acquerello is a kind of Carnaroli grown in Piedmont, and the one used exclusively by Le Cirque for its famous risotto. In a unique process, it’s aged for at least a year to develop its structure and ensure that the grains are polished to perfection. A high starch content allows it to absorb liquid beautifully, so the rice retains a toothy “al dente” quality while acquiring a creamy consistency, the two hallmarks of the ultimate risotto. You can make so many different kinds of risotto: with saffron for a classic Milanese; with the first peas and asparagus of spring; with pureed squash stirred in; with porcini; and on and on. The recipe, below, is inspired by the Italian master chef Nino Bergese, whose “Riso Mantecato” has even more butter and requires absolutely no stirring at all. I’ve called my version Risotto da Re (King’s Risotto), because it’s fit for royalty: unctuous, decadent and taken to new heights with a spoonful of rich meat stock ladled on top. It was selected as an Editor’s Pick on Food52, an honor of which I do not tire.

You can use top-quality stock from the store—perhaps frozen? or a reconstituted demi-glace? But maybe this is your moment to make your own, and to discover what a HUGE difference there is between the watery stuff made with “beef flavoring,” and this rich, intensely aromatic and deeply colored stock that starts with roasted bones.

RISOTTO DA RE

serves 4 as a first course

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter, plus 1/2 cup butter

1 large shallot, sliced thin

3/4 cups dry white wine

4 cups vegetable stock

1 1/2 cup Acquerello carnaroli rice

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan

1/3 cup rich meat stock (recipe follows)

2 teaspoons butter

In a deep pan, melt 2 tablespoons butter with olive oil over low heat. Add the shallot and cook until golden and soft, about 20 minutes. Remove shallot with slotted spoon and puree in food processor until smooth.

Meanwhile, in two separate saucepans, heat vegetable stock and meat stock, maintaining just below a boil. Stir 2 teaspoons of butter in to the meat stock.

Return shallot puree to pan, add rice and raise heat to medium. Stir rice well to coat and sautee for about 4 minutes, then add wine. When it’s incorporated, begin adding hot vegetable stock in quarter-cup increments, gently stirring, and only adding more when it’s been fully absorbed.

The grains of rice will begin to swell. Start tasting after you’ve incorporated 2-3 cups (you probably won’t need more than 3). When finished, the risotto should retain an “al dente” texture with plump, individual grains. At this point, stir in the 1/2 cup butter and Parmesan.

To serve, plate risotto and create a small well in the center of each mound to hold a couple of spoonfuls of the hot meat stock.

RICH MEAT STOCK

makes 6 cups

1 large onion, quartered

2 carrots, sliced

1 leek, cleaned and sliced

2 celery stalks, sliced

2.5 pounds beef marrow bones

2.5 pounds organic beef stew meat, cubed

2 tablespoons tomato paste

5 cloves garlic

2 bay leaves

3 sprigs thyme

3 sprigs Italian parsley

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Rinse the bones with cold water and pat dry. Place the vegetables in a single layer in a large roasting pan and add the bones on top. Roast, turning the bones a few times, until well browned; about 1 hour.

Transfer the bones and vegetables to a large soup pot, discarding fat from the roasting pan. Deglaze the pan with a couple of cups of water over high heat, scraping up all the brown bits. Add this to the bones, along with the cubed meat, tomato paste, garlic, bay leaves, thyme and parsley. Pour in cold water to cover the bones and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and skim off any foam that rises to the surface. Do not stir. Add peppercorns, and continue to simmer, uncovered, for about 4 hours, skimming from time to time.

Strain stock and discard solids. Cool and then refrigerate overnight. The following day, remove and discard fat that has risen to the top, and discard any debris that has sunk to the bottom. Salt before using or, if planning to reduce, wait to add salt until later. Can be stored in the refrigerator for several days, or divided into smaller quantities and frozen for future use, up to 6 months.