The Great Pumpkin


pumpkin

illustration by janice richter

I love pumpkin pie. What I really love about it has everything to do with pumpkin and nothing to do with the crust. It’s all about the innards. (Yet another reason why I’m a good match for my gluten-intolerant husband.) I began making this custard years ago, partially influenced by the many flans of my childhood. I like to serve it with a dollop of ginger-spiked creme fraîche and some candied pepitas. And then I like to wake up the next morning and eat it just plain (OK, or with more creme fraîche) for breakfast.


Pumpkin happens to be an excellent source of carotenoids—antioxidants that reduce the risk of cancer. Rich in beta-carotene, it’s also one of the highest sources of alpha-carotene, which boosts immunity. It’s also got plenty of vitamin C, niacin and calcium and is high in fiber and low in calories. Even the seeds are full of protein, amino acids, zinc and iron. This recipe takes advantage of all of this great nutrition, which hopefully offsets some of the fat and sugar…


I have to confess that this year, feeling all virtuous, I tried to make a tofu-based pumpkin custard, adapted from a Moosewood recipe—and it REALLY SUCKED. (I do have a fantastic recipe for a tofu-based chocolate mousse I will share with you at some point.) Fortunately, I had time to chuck it and start over with this one, which is always a hit.


Pumpkin Custard

adapted from The Martha Stewart Cookbook, Collected Recipes for Every Day
serves 8

  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • 2 egg yolks, and 4 whole eggs, lightly beaten
  • 1 cup pumpkin puree, fresh or canned
  • 4 tablespoons honey or maple syrup
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • whole nutmeg
  1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Butter 8 1/2-cup ramekins, or one fairly deep ovenproof dish (like a small casserole).
  2. Heat the cream in a heavy saucepan. Remove from the heat and stir gradually into the beaten eggs. Stir in the pumpkin puree, honey, sugar and cinnamon.
  3. Strain the mixture and divide it equally among the ramekins, or pour it all into the casserole. Grate a thin layer of fresh nutmeg over the top.
  4. Place the ramekins or casserole in a large roasting pan. Fill the pan with enough boiling water to reach halfway up the sides of the custard dishes. Place the pan on a rack in the bottom third of the oven and bake until set, approximately 40 minutes. A single dish will take a bit longer. Cool before serving. (I actually like it well chilled.)
  5. Serve with a dollop of creme fraiche in which you have stirred some chopped candied ginger; and a sprinkling of candied pumpkin seeds (recipe follows).

Candied Pumpkin Seeds

adapted from Suzanne Goin's Sunday Suppers at Lucques
makes 1/2 cup

  • 1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 2 teaspoons unsalted butter
  • 1/2 cup pepitas (raw pumpkin seeds)
  • 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
  • generous pinch each ground cardamom & cayenne
  • 2 teaspoons honey
  • sea salt
  1. Melt the butter in a small pan over medium heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and the sugar, then sprinkle spices and a generous pinch of salt over them. Toss to coat well and cook until seeds begin to pop and brown slightly, a few minutes.
  2. Turn off the heat and wait 30 seconds, then add honey and toss well to coat. Spread pumpkin seeds on a plate and break apart after they've cooled completely.

  1. the custard sounds simple and YUM! can’t wait to try it… the seeds! i want to try them sprinkled on my fave salad of the moment: grilled chix paillard topped with baby arugula, feta and beets in a simple vinaigrette. i usually sprinkle raw pepitas, but these would add an interesting spicy sweet counter. cardamom is also an obsession… i put seeds in my French press with the coffee (a la hampton chutney) and my senses swoon… JAN, your illustration is gorgeous. fun to see your new work!

    Posted by Joc on 12.24.09 at 9:09 am

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