Heat a heavy skillet (cast-iron works great) over a high flame and toss in the serrano chiles. Cook until they turn black, then remove them to a small bowl and cover with plastic wrap so they steam. Set aside.

In the same skillet, over medium heat, toast the almonds until golden, then slide them into a bowl and set aside. Repeat with the sesame seeds, watching closely so they do not burn.

Using scissors, cut the dried chiles into large pieces, discarding the stems and seeds. Toast the pieces in the skillet, turning once, until fragrant, about 2 minutes total. Tip them into a bowl and cover with the boiling water. Set aside to steep.

In a frying pan with a lid, melt the lard over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, then add the almonds, sesame seeds, tomatoes, salt and spices. Drain the soaking chiles, discarding liquid, and add them to the pan. Cover and cook for 30 minutes, or until the chiles are pretty soft. Cool slightly.

Remove the serrano chiles and peel off their skin. Slit open and remove the seeds. Place the flesh in a food processor or blender with the tomato-chile sauce and blend until smooth.

Cut the tongue into paper-thin slices and reheat them in the sauce, adding a couple tablespoons water to thin the sauce a bit.

Heat the tortillas in a hot pan and wrap them in a clean dish towel to stay warm. Bring them to the table along with the tongue in a bowl (sounds so weird!), and bowls of cheese, cabbage, cilantro and lime wedges so people can make their own tacos.

Soak the tongue in a bowl of cold water for an hour.

Discard water and place tongue in a large heavy saucepan. Add cold water to cover the tongue and bring to a boil over medium heat. Skim any scum, then reduce heat and add remaining ingredients.

Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit and lay over surface. Cover pot and simmer gently until the tongue is very tender, about 2 hours. To test for doneness, pierce the tongue at its thickest point with the tip of a sharp knife.

While it's still hot, transfer the tongue to a plate, using tongs. The next step is to peel off the skin, OK, yes, it's a little creepy but go ahead. You can wear gloves to protect your hands from the heat, because if you let it cool too much it won't slip off easily. I use the tongs to pull the skin away. Be careful around the tip as it tends to stick. Scrape off any bumps with the back of a knife and trim any fat and gristle from the base.

Strain the poaching liquid and, once cooled, use it to store the tongue. It will keep in its liquid for 3-4 days.