Condimental: Let’s Chaat


photos by george billard

Chaats are Indian snacks and appetizers, a sort of street food that is widely welcomed indoors as well. In India, there are restaurants that specialize entirely in chaat. When I told our driver in Jaipur that I wanted to eat chaat from a street stall, he raised his brows in horror and whisked G and me to an air-conditioned restaurant where we sat amongst Indian families and had delicious sweet-tart-spicy-crunchy treats accompanied by cooling lassi. Chaat is Hindi for “to taste,” and mostly consists of small dishes, often easy to eat by hand or off banana leaves on the street. As with Indian cuisine in general, chaats are quite diverse, with many regional specialties, but quite a few are fried, like pakoras and samosas, and some are stuffed breads. Dipping sauces and raita are key to the whole experience.

 

Many of these dishes are flavored with chaat masala, a combination of spices that varies from person to person and place to place. I buy mine pre-made (Kalustyan’s yet again) and it contains salt, amchur (mango powder), musk melon, cumin, black pepper, pomegranate seed, coriander, mint, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, mace, chile, caraway, ajowain (a relative of coriander), cloves, hing and bay leaf. Hing? you ask. Read the rest of this entry »

Going Green


photo by george billard

Someone recently accused me of eating a lot of kale. They said it as though it were an accusation, like I needed to justify myself. I hereby declare myself a lover of kale. I freely admit that. (Proof positive is this post. And this one. And this one.  And this one.) The stuff is good. Tastes delicious, is very versatile and packs a wallop of nutrition. Do you read Goop? Gwyneth Paltrow’s blog sort of irritates me. I can’t really pinpoint why but I think it just might have something to do with her total and unmitigated sense of entitlement. Just because you can spend two hours a day working out with Tracy Anderson in your custom-built blonde wood yoga studio in back of your lovely house in East Hampton, Gwynnie, doesn’t mean we can. Grrrr. Yet we can make her I-need-to-lose-5-pounds-quick-for-this-movie-premiere kale juice cocktail (with lemon juice and agave nectar). Or even better, we can use kale to whip up deliciously salty-crunchy chips that we can munch on to our heart’s content without even missing those salt-&-vinegar kettle chips one iota. Perfect for getting into fighting shape. Beach weather is coming, hard as it may seem to believe when we’re currently at 28 degrees upstate!! (All those new little green leaves? Drooping in the cold, poor darlings!) So you gotta eat your kale, bay-bee!


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Ready for Your Close-Up?



Thought you might be looking for a snack worthy of the Oscars. Might I suggest my recipe for the super-addictive Jimmy “Crack” Corn? It’s quick and easy to make and really quite delicious. Hopefully you’ll have lots of friends to share it with; if not, you’re in danger of eating the whole batch. I don’t dare make it at home. G and I have a history of addiction to kettle corn. It got pretty ugly. In case you’re up for something a bit more ambitious and on the savory side, here’s a recipe for stuffed and fried olives that recently took home the prize for “Your Best Movie Snack” on Food52. And last but not least, how about a delicious frozen treat from one of the many I’ve posted? Choose from cardamom ice cream; citrus sorbet; burnt-orange ice cream; grapefruit-ginger sorbet; or coconut-lime sorbet. You’ll need something to keep you going—can you believe they’ve increased the number of nominations for Best Picture? Sacrilege! (Or pathetic desperation?) We’ll be up all night. And god knows we need our energy for the intensive critiquing of the gowns, the hairdos, the facelifts, and the artificially plumped-up boobs, lip and cheeks. I’m raring to go!! Let’s pray that Tilda Swinton makes her annual appearance as The Only Actress With Real Personal Style and a Sense of Fashion. If Meryl wins for her portrayal of Julia I’ll have to fight back the gag reflex (just like I did while watching that parodic performance in that overrated film). Anyway, as I keep saying on Food52, it’s an honor just to be nominated.

I Love Shorty


spicy shortiesphoto by george billard

Around the holidays, a frenzy of baking takes place. Everyone is spritzing out those German butter cookies, rolling Mexican wedding cookies, dipping things in chocolate and sticking on sprinkles. And god bless them. But ever since my holistic nutritionist Sally Kravich likened eating white flour to putting elementary-school paste up my butt, I’ve tried to drastically reduce the amount of traditional baked goods I eat. (And after that lovely analogy you may, too, right?) The refined sugar, the refined flour, the crisco…it’s just not doing me any favors. And because G cannot eat gluten, options diminish even further. But none of this means I’m going to give up the occasional indulgence. So when I feel like eating a cookie, I make these deliciously chewy, assertively spiced, buttery little oat cookies that pack a lot of flavor and nutrition without any white flour. Read the rest of this entry »

How Sweet It Is


salt

Does candy-making seem way too daunting? Here’s a little secret: all it takes is a clip-on thermometer and a tireless stirring arm. (Doesn’t even need to be yours!) More than ten years ago, I began making caramels to give away to clients and friends during the holiday season. They’ve developed quite the rabid fan base and, at this point, I can’t really get away with not making them. (Quite a few people have suggested I start a business selling these caramels, but I think, like Haley’s comet, their occasional appearance contributes to their coveted status.)


boil


Early on, I tweaked recipes from Martha Stewart Living for golden vanilla and chocolate versions. I add grey sea salt from Brittany as a final touch, giving them that great sweet-salty counterpoint we all love so much, and providing just the slightest crunch to an otherwise creamy mouthful. Another key to their divinely irresistible deliciousness is the quality of ingredients (no duh). I use mostly organic or artisanal products, including Kate’s homemade butter, Nielsen-Massey vanilla and Scharffen Berger chocolate. Read the rest of this entry »

(Jimmy) Crack Corn


 

photos by gluttonforlife

Once upon a time (before parasites and gluten intolerance had come into full focus in this household) two people developed something of an addiction to Kettle Corn, that aphrodisiacal delivery system for salt and sugar disguised as a light treat. We would buy a large bag from Whole Foods, certain it would last the week, and then devour the entire thing while splayed on the couch watching Big Love. The subsequent bloating and intestinal pain was deemed “worth it.”


All that had become like a fever dream of the past when I stumbled upon a recipe for Maple Pecan Popcorn in the now defunct Gourmet magazine. (Damn you, Condé Nast! or should I say Damn you, McKinsey?) I decided it seemed like a “healthy” alternative—no sugar, after all—and whipped up a batch with my own addition of dried cranberries and cayenne. Read the rest of this entry »

Tomatillos = Little Green Tomatoes?


photo 2 by george billard

The answer is no, Einstein. Tomatillos are actually part of the nightshade family, related to the gooseberry. This all becomes clear once you focus on the papery husk. I’ve heard the ripe fruit can be yellow or even purple, but I’ve only ever seen them this clear green color. They are sweet-tart with a bright citrusy taste. We grew two enormous bushes this summer that towered over everything in the vegetable garden, attracted industrious armies of bees, resisted the ceaseless downpour (or maybe thrived on it?) and produced vast quantities of perfect tomatillos just smaller than a golfball. What then to do with all this bounty? Read the rest of this entry »

Killer Pickled Okra


hot_jar_pickles


My friend Carolyn’s old girlfriend Mimi, a Jew from Texas, first turned me on to pickled okra with this very brand. After encountering a beautiful crop at Juno’s Farm in the Union Square farmers’ market, I was inspired to replicate them. I wish I could say I grew my own but the truth is that one lone okra plant is all that survived this year’s torrents. It did produce some gorgeous creamy flowers and a few long, elegant pods but not enough to put up. Read the rest of this entry »

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