Salt Seller


photos by gluttonforlife

Salt is in the zeitgeist. Although the stuff has been around literally forever (read this book on its fascinating history), it’s being particularly fetishized at this moment. No fewer than 3 people gave me salt this holiday season, bringing my collection to 18 different types! A couple of the gifts came from the same store: The Meadow, on Hudson Street in New York City. Jennifer Turner Bitterman and her husband “selmelier” Mark Bitterman founded this boutique in Portland in 2006. It specializes in salt, chocolate, flowers and wine (though on a recent visit I noticed only bitters; more on those later). The assortment of salts is truly mind-blowing. From Bengal Blue to Smoked Red Alder, there are more than 100 types, sourced from all over the world. The most instantly striking thing in the store are blocks and slabs of pink Himalayan salt, big translucent pieces for cooking and serving food. You can arrange sashimi on a chilled brick of the stuff and watch the edges of the fish turn pale and firm as it actually cures right there. Or heat a block on the stove or the barbeque and grill thin slices of flank steak for a unique and delicately salty flavor. I can’t wait to try this!


the meadow is a sunny sliver of a shop on hudson street

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Worth My Salt


clockwise from bottom left: Maldon, fleur de sel, Halen Môn, kosher and Pristine Sun Fire

I love this expression and its somewhat arcane origins. Salt once had such value that wages were paid in it. I, for one, could not live without the stuff. Although sodiumgirl seems to do more than fine, creating big flavors to make up for the one she can’t have. Having taken you through alternatives to sugar yesterday, I suppose the correct symmetry would have me talking about salt substitutes here, such as they are—soy sauce or even Mrs. Dash, I suppose. But instead I’m going to wax lyrical about my favorite salts. Oh, come off it, you’re saying, right? Once it hits your tongue, one salt’s the same as the next. I heartily disagree. Granted, it may be more about texture but that’s no small thing, and I still maintain there are taste variations. I tend to cook with kosher salt (regular table salt has no place in my home so don’t go giving me those shakers with the teeny holes) but I am very into finishing dishes with other types of salt. You can call me a salt snob if you like. I’ll just take it as a compliment. Read the rest of this entry »