{Eating}

Louie, Louie

2.24.12
photos by gluttonforlife

I started working when I was 16 as a hostess at Gilda’s, a seafood restaurant on the wharf in Santa Cruz. It was one of a few restaurants owned by a large family of Neapolitan immigrants—the Stagnaros—who were born fishermen and restaurateurs. I met my first real boyfriend there, a line cook who surfed and drove a turquoise ’59 Chevy. He made a mean Denver omelette and taught me to roll a joint. At Gilda’s (pronounced with a soft “G”) we served excellent Boston clam chowder and a divine crab Louie, the West Coast salad made with crisp lettuce, hard-boiled eggs and Thousand Island dressing. So when I saw a recipe in the Times last month for a slightly updated version (courtesy of David Tanis of Chez Panisse), I began craving it in the way you do the familiar tastes of home. I made it with fresh East Coast lump crab meat, not the classic Dungeness, and dressed it with a creamy boiled dressing instead of the pink stuff, and it still satisfied immensely.

 

Read the rest of this entry »

Tagged—, , , , , ,

commentsNo Comments

{Eating, Health}

Salad Days

2.15.12
photos by gluttonforlife

Those were the days. Sometimes I yearn for the suppleness of youth, its insouciance and capacity for indulgence. But it’s a fleeting moment of fantasy because I belong irrevocably to this moment. I inhabit this skin with a sense of purpose and without regret. There are times for looking back and times for looking ahead, but there’s no time like the present. As Joni Mitchell sings, in her seminal song “Down To You,” Everything comes and goes, marked by lovers and styles of clothes. Things that you held high and told yourself were true, lost or changing as the days come down to you.

 

The salad days that matter now are on your plate. Channel your creativity and your quest for health into this ageless combination of the raw and the cooked. Interrupt the dreary weeks of winter with refreshing concoctions crisp with cabbage, celery, apple and bitter greens, and punctuated with sweet bursts of citrus and pomegranate. By all means toss in some protein—a grated hard-cooked egg; some oily tuna or smoked mackerel; a crumbly goat cheese or sharp pecorino. You’re looking to create that perfect balance of flavors and textures: crunchy and creamy, sweet and tart, salty and spicy. As in all things, experience enhances your ability and wisdom makes a superb seasoning.

 

Read the rest of this entry »

Tagged—, , , , , , ,

comments2 Comments

{Eating, Health}

Seafood Diet

2.2.12
photos by gluttonforlife

You go along in life, understanding the course of things, but never really imagining that what you see others endure will befall you. That might be the definition of youth. Because, inevitably, it happens to you. To paraphrase Mia Farrow, life is a series of losses and it’s all about the grace and resilience with which you respond. My former mother-in-law once looked at a photo of Liv Ullman on the cover of the New York Times Magazine and said, “Ugh, she’s really let herself go.” Never mind that the Swedish actress was being lauded for directing a film, what mattered to this woman was that a former beauty now looked like the 62-year-old she was. And I remember feeling disgusted by that, and vowing to forever construe “letting oneself go” as something quite liberating and wonderful.

 

I let my grey hair come in over the past 2 years and there was a certain loss that needed to be mourned there; quietly, mind you. I went from a tousled brunette to an elegant silver without more than a whimper. But now that I am finding it difficult to fit into any of my clothes, now that my skin is becoming slacker and my muscle tone less defined—all those clichés of middle age—I begin to feel a bit of that desperation that sends women under the scalpel. I’m not going to start in with the whole I’m invisible routine. Unless you’re Elle Macpherson, that pretty much sets in after age 40. And I’m lucky enough to have a husband who tells me I’m beautiful all the time. But, pathetic as it may be, I am newly committed to holding on to what I have for as long as possible. That entails lots of exercise and watching what I eat. Because, to me, being a glutton is all about expanding your palate not your waistline. It’s being greedy for the things that are good and good for you. It means that lunch is about salad.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tagged—, , , , , ,

comments7 Comments

{Eating, Health}

Crunch Factor

1.4.12
photos by gluttonforlife

A while back, I believe I mentioned a desire to explore some lesser-known ingredients with you. I’ve been keeping a running list—including pickled tapioca, sorghum molasses and dried Persian limes—so do let me know if there’s anything you’re curious about. This is kohlrabi—from the German “kohl,” meaning cabbage and “rabi,” meaning turnip. It’s a brassica, like cauliflower, kale and collards, and has all the same nutritional benefits: low in carbs and calories, high in fiber and antioxidants. It also comes in a deep purple color. Slightly sweet and fresh, with the faintest peppery bite, kohlrabi can be eaten raw or cooked. If raw, it needs to be peeled, but after cooking the tougher outer skin softens up plenty. With all the cozy soups and hearty braises we’re eating at this wintry time of year, it’s nice to have some cool, crunchy salads as a counterpoint, (here’s one with celery root, and another with radicchio and grapefruit), so I used my kohlrabi in a crisp, sprightly slaw.

 

Read the rest of this entry »

Tagged—, , , , , , , ,

comments6 Comments

{Eating}

In Memoriam

12.12.11
photo by george billard

My friend Andy Jacobson died on Saturday. He was only 52, and he left behind an incredible wife and two amazing teenagers. I saw it coming but I wasn’t prepared. I wanted more time with him, a chance to fix him the Brussels sprouts salad that was the subject of his last tweet to me. In response to my posting this video on the subject, he wrote: “Looks so good! Will you make them???? Pleeeeeze.” I never got around to it. Like my father, he had stomach cancer, so he might not have been able to eat it anyway. But still. I’m making it now, Andy, and I’m hoping that whoever else tries the recipe below will think of you, too. An aesthete, a mensch, a quibbler, a devoted father and husband, a loyal friend, a merry prankster. One of G’s pals from way back, and like family to us, he got himself licensed so he could perform our wedding ceremony, and he milked that crowd for laughs. The gods are surely smiling today. Read the rest of this entry »

Tagged—, , , , , ,

comments9 Comments

{Eating}

My Baloney

11.30.11
photos by gluttonforlife

My baloney has a first name. It’s Mortadella. I’ll bet you already know that baloney is a bastardization of bologna—actually, Bologna, for the city in Italy from whence this delectable pork sausage hails. But are you aware that it’s named for the mortar (mortaio) that in conjunction with a pestle was originally responsible for the finely ground meat that forms the basis of this heat-cured salume? (Salume is how Italians refer to charcuterie or, more basely, cold cuts.) I have no love for Oscar Mayer’s offspring, and shudder to think what goes into those inspid, rubbery slices. They’re barely fit to kiss the hem of the real deal: a rich, dense and savory concoction, flavored with garlic, coriander, nutmeg and sometimes studded with pistachios.

 

this is not your childhood bologna

I get my mortadella at Eataly‘s fabulous salumeria where I can have it cut to order in a thick slab. For some gathering over the next month I may even make this recipe I came across for “Mortadella Smear” in Saveur. Trust me, it surpasses its unfortunate name in every way. Pureed mortadella enriched with a velouté sauce and a little cream, slathered on grilled bread and drizzled with balsamic. What’s not to like? This diverges wildly from the mortadella of yore and is more akin to paté whipped up by a lazy Italian contessa.

 

into the frying pan

Mortadella has a fair amount of fat, so it fries up beautifully crisp. You can do thin slices, which are quite nice, almost chip-like, but I prefer chubby little cubes that come out chewy with crunchy edges. The perfect vehicle for them? A fresh escarole salad tossed with tangy anchovy dressing.

 

bitter(sweet) greens

Escarole, also known as “broad-leaved endive” (but not called that by anyone you know) is a member of the chicory family, along with puntarelle, radicchio and Belgian endive. It’s slightly sweeter than its bitter brethren and is a sadly under-appreciated green. (Here’s a recipe for a very simple escarole soup.) Delicious cooked—sauteed with shallots and chile, wilted in garlicky oil—escarole is secretly a salad diva. Served raw, it’s gutsy without being aggressive and has gently curled edges that are made for cupping dressing.

 

crowning touches

We had this salad one night for dinner along with cups of creamy butternut squash soup sprinkled with spicy toasted squash seeds, and it reminded me that I’ve been meaning to talk to you about something: GARNISHES. The way you finish a dish can make the difference between good and extraordinary. G calls it “kicking it up a notch”—unabashedly ripping off Emeril’s catch-phrase—and it’s a call to action in the kitchen. You can always make something just that much better with an extra drizzle of spicy green olive oil, sprinkling of coarse sea salt, frizzle of herbs or dollop of crème fraîche.

 

top it off

This is where the notion of condiments comes into play. Homemade chutney, spiced pumpkin seeds, curry salt, fried sage, pickled onions—these have the power to bring your cooking into focus by adding flavor and textural counterpoints. Use your imagination, your creativity and your palate, and have fun gilding the lily.

 

Escarole Salad with Fried Mortadella

serves 2-4

  • 1 head escarole
  • 1 generous cup diced mortadella
  • 1 teaspoon anchovy paste
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
  • juice of 1/2 lemon
  • olive oil
  • coarse sea salt & freshly ground black pepper
  1. Make dressing first so it can sit and the flavors will meld as you prepare the salad. Whisk together anchovy paste, garlic and lemon juice in a small bowl or mug. Whisk in olive oil until nicely emulsified. Taste and add a pinch of sugar if needed.
  2. Core escarole, discarding any scraggly outer leaves. Wash leaves and dry well. Tear into large pieces and place in salad bowl.
  3. Heat a skillet and add diced mortadella, frying over medium flame until nicely browned. Remove to a paper-towel lined plate.
  4. Remove garlic clove from dressing and discard; toss escarole with dressing. Add mortadella, a sprinkling of salt and plenty of pepper and toss again.

 

Tagged—, , , , , , ,

comments4 Comments

{Eating, Garden, Health}

Vegging Out

9.21.11
photos by gluttonforlife

Fall is here—already. It’s brought with it beautiful cool sleeping weather and that poignant quality, a tender melancholy. This is my favorite season, bittersweet and poised so precariously between the royal flush of summer and the dark abyss of winter. Time now to squeeze every last drop of warmth and sweetness from the world. In the garden, tomatoes, zucchini, basil and herbs are performing a glorious swan song. It’s the perfect moment for one of these verrines, a French bistro staple that I learned about in the October issue of Food & Wine, which is dedicated to the new French classics. You’re undoubtedly familiar with parfaits, those gorgeous layers of fruit, cream and frozen delights showcased so perfectly in clear footed glasses. Well, this is sort of a vegetable version of that. A fresh, chunky salad topped with a creamy layer of whipped mascarpone, and garnished with a crispy slice of prosciutto. It’s an ideal lunch, or a lovely way to welcome guests for a casual dinner party.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tagged—, , , , , , ,

comments4 Comments

{Eating, Garden, Health}

Raw Deal

7.13.11
photos by gluttonforlife

Can’t stand the heat? Get out of the kitchen. But if you live in the complete sticks, where restaurants and take-out are really not an option, the kitchen is where you ultimately wind up when you feel hungry. The solution is often the grill, or you can abandon fire altogether and opt for cold leftovers, chilled soup, composed salads or even ceviche. But if you happen upon some screaming yellow zucchini and are looking for an easy supper, here’s something that’s all inspiration and no perspiration. In addition to the squash, you’ll need a knife, pine nuts, basil, parmesan, a lemon and some good olive oil. Leave your hearty appetite at the door. This is a light repast for those summer evenings when you’re feeling like a cat on hot tin roof. If you’re still hungry, eat a pint of ice cream…

 

Read the rest of this entry »

Tagged—, , , , , , ,

comments2 Comments

{Eating}

Meaty Monday: Steak & Salad

6.6.11
photos by gluttonforlife

June is busting out all over. The delicate pink and white blossoms of spring have given way to lush peonies and roses and lilies. After a momentary blip last week, there is no more no sign of the sultry, damp days ahead when dogs will lie panting in the shade and we will press sweating glasses of lemonade to our fevered brows. Today all is bright green hills and turquoise skies. The kind of weather when thoughts turn to fresh salads. And the grill, of course. Summer means grilling. Oh, no! you say But I’m a city dweller. I can relate. I’m a grill widow. Where once I was only in charge of marinating, my hobbled husband has temporarily relinquished his patio post in front of the Weber, leaving me to face down this fiery challenge. For the moment, I have run screaming back to my stove, where it’s possible to make a perfectly acceptable steak. Heat up that cast iron pan really well, buy the best meat available and don’t overcook it. That’s the best advice I can give you. That, and serve it sliced thinly next to a simple salad of arugula and red onion. It’s heaven on a plate.

 

Read the rest of this entry »

Tagged—, , , , , ,

comments7 Comments

{Eating}

Discover Your Roots

3.17.11
photos by gluttonforlife

For those of you not lucky enough to be eating your own corned beef tonight, here’s a quick peek at how mine turned out. Overall, I’m quite satisfied. The meat was just the right balance of tender but firm. It was a gorgeous pink, perfumed by the spices and very buttery from that extra layer of fat that my butcher did not remove. (Thanks, Jake!) I let the vegetables get a tad soft perhaps, but they have a melt-in-your-mouth quality that is irresistible. It makes me realize that I do not eat enough velvety cooked cabbage. Both the sauces—coarse-grained mustard with shallots and a dash of stout, and creme fraiche with horseradish and chives—are addictive and the perfect pungent, spicy counterpoint to the rich meat. The one surprise was the broth: copious amounts of it (so much so that I’ll be using it to make beans), and delicious poured over the whole dish. Served in a broad pasta bowl, everything can run together into one delectable hot mess. Would love to hear how anyone else’s turned out.


If you thought we were done with root vegetables—not so fast! After all the squash soups and mashed parsnips and potato-leek gratins and beet salads, I came across a root previously unknown to me: parsley root. Have you encountered it? Apparently it’s big with Eastern Europeans and Jewish grandmothers.


rooting around

Read the rest of this entry »

Tagged—, , , , , ,

comments2 Comments

Newer  1 2 3  Older