7.28.10
takashi inoue & jake dickson photos by george billard
The very day the Times gave Takashi a rave review, Dickson’s announced it would be co-hosting a special dinner there, featuring an all-beef menu from a single steer it would supply. As a big fan of Dickson’s, conscientiously-raised beef, Korean barbecue and adventurous eating, I couldn’t really pass up the opportunity. Takashi—the name of the chef and his restaurant—opened in April in Manhattan’s West Village, and seems to be occupying a new space in the city’s dining landscape. The food is in the style of yakiniku, a Japanese version of Korean barbecue that originated in Japan during the Second World War, when many thousands of Koreans were conscripted into the Japanese army and brought to the island to work. Chef Takashi Inoue’s grandmother is Korean and runs a small yakiniku restaurant in Osaka. Takashi came to the United States three years ago to study English, met Saheem Ali—then a theater director, now the restaurant’s general manager—and together they opened this small restaurant. The quality of the meat on offer is fantastic. At the dinner we attended, it all came from one steer that had been provided by Dickson’s. It was a real adventure in nose-to-tail eating, and one that honored Dickson’s fine beef, Takashi’s original cooking, and the magnificent animal that made it all possible. Read the rest of this entry »
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6.3.10
photos by george billard
Pork is not in circulation at our house right now (part of an elimination diet we’re trying), and although there are plenty of other things to eat, bacon is pretty hard to replace. So I was intrigued when I spotted beef bacon at Dickson’s the other week. Turns out it has a nice smoky flavor and, though not fatty enough to become truly crispy, it’s got a meaty chew that is rather pleasant. Because eating meats raises the level of acidity in the body, it’s good to accompany them with plenty of alkalinizing fresh and cooked vegetables. One of my favorite ways to cook greens is with a piece of smoky meat, whether it’s pork, beef, poultry or even dried bonito. It’s an easy way to adds a lot of flavor.
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5.26.10
photos by george billard
I accidentally bought a dozen avocados last week thinking that it was Memorial Day this Monday instead of next, so I wound up making an impromptu cold avocado soup as a prelude to a Mexican dinner on Sunday. It came out more like a thick puree and I decided to serve it that way, sprinkled with just a bit of aromatic piment d’Espelette. It was VERY creamy and smooth. This paved the way for goat birria, a dish typical of blue-collar restaurants in Guadalajara. You basically slow-roast or braise a goat leg (we got one at the farm), then shred it and top it with a chile-tomato sauce spiced with cumin, cloves and a little cinnamon. Wrapped in a warm corn tortilla with a squeeze of lime, some chopped onion and cilantro, it’s quite delicious. I’ll post the recipe, from Rick Bayless, below; if you can’t get goat, you could try this with lamb or pork. Speaking of smooth and creamy, you’ve undoubtedly noticed the chocolate ice cream, above, and are probably wondering when I’m going to get to that. Read the rest of this entry »
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5.6.10
I am so captivated by painter Mark Ryden’s latest show, The Gay 90’s Olde Tyme Art Show, at Paul Kasmin Gallery in New York. The official release says the work “references the idealism of the 1890s while addressing the role of kitsch and nostalgia in our current culture,” but for me it’s really all about the meat.
Apparently he had an entire exhibition called The Meat Show: Paintings about Children, God, and USDA Grade A Beef. I know, it’s kinda creepy, but I just adore the Currinesque-anime-anal-retentive realism. And that meat, it’s all so beautifully rendered…
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4.21.10
photo by george billard
My love for cardamom knows no bounds. I covet its pungent, deliciously floral spice—to smell (I adore perfumes that contain it) and to eat. Is that strange? If you are not familiar with this gorgeous flavor, I suggest you give it a try in either a sweet or savory recipe. I have posted several previously (rich shortbread-like cookies, a vegetarian curry, and ice cream). Don’t miss the new ones posted below: the ultimate lassi for warm weather; lamb chops for the grill or stovetop; and an easy and highly armotic basmati rice. Read the rest of this entry »
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4.18.10
Have you see the movie Food Inc. yet? The film takes a good hard look at the state of industrial agriculture and factory farming in this country. Everybody really needs to see it. It is very consciousness-raising and may radically change the way you eat. (At least I hope it will.) This Wednesday, April 21st, at 9pm, PBS will be broadcasting Food, Inc. and is encouraging viewers to throw a potluck and watch the film together. You can get more information, including a huge listing of crowd-friendly recipes, by clicking here. I think it would be wise to eat before watching the film, as it won’t exactly enhance your appetite. Even better, throw a vegetarian potluck! I’ve posted a few more recipes below. Read the rest of this entry »
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3.13.10
If you want to make corned beef and cabbage for St. Patrick’s Day, you’re already too late! Sheesh. I went to investigate some recipes and saw that most call for brining the meat for 8 days. We’ve got 4. My brisket is very small (about 2 pounds), since it’s just for G and me, but this is a great meal to feed a bunch of people—like a family with 6 kids perhaps? I wanted to get this post up quickly, in case you’d like to go to the market today and get your supplies. This recipe looks long and involved but it’s actually pretty simple. I just made the pickling spices and the brine and got my meat squared away in about 12 minutes. There are hurricane warnings and flood alerts in effect today in Sullivan Country, but for some reason we’re still determined to hit the road for a pilgrimage north to Delicacies of the Delaware—a fantastic smokehouse where we like to stock up on wonderful things from time to time. Hopefully we won’t float away…
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2.13.10
You may remember I wrote a while back about the red miso short ribs I invented, using a more classic preparation as a template. I’m please to say they were singled out among the editors’ picks this week on Food52, a very fun cooking site I recommend you visit. Don’t be put off by the use of slightly more esoteric ingredients like the miso, or mirin (a sweet Japanese cooking wine) or daikon (a large white radish). These can all be found at your local health food market, maybe even Whole Foods, or definitely an Asian speciality market. This is great cold-weather cooking. As with the other short ribs recipe, it’s best if you plan ahead so you can have a day to marinate, and another to chill the cooked ribs which makes removing the fat much easier. So without further ado, I present my recipe. Read the rest of this entry »
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2.5.10
photo by george billard
G went hog wild in Dickson’s this week. Came home with some grass-fed beef stew, these two humongous short ribs (the butcher said they would be better if he didn’t cut them—why?), a couple of squabs, a red cockerel and a Boston butt. Most of it went into the freezer, to be doled out over many weeks, but the short ribs will be featured at dinner tomorrow night. We’ve got a couple of friends coming over. That’s exciting stuff up here in the boonies. I’m trying a new preparation with red miso, mirin and daikon radish. I’ll let you know how it turns out. Usually, I favor a more classic presentation, the one from Suzanne Goin’s Sunday Suppers at Lucques. (Yes, I’m droning on about her again.) I first had these at her Los Angeles restaurant on my 40th birthday. If you’ve never made short ribs, I suggest you start here. They are really quite simple: just a matter of assembling the ingredients, browning the meat and throwing it in the oven for 3 hours. Plan ahead, as these are at their best when you marinate them overnight, cook them, and then let them chill overnight again so you can easily remove all that fat from the pan juices. Trust me, it’s worth a little forethought. So if you want to serve them on Saturday, begin the recipe on Thursday. (It’s all part of my master plan to get you to start thinking about your meals in advance, planning, scheming, daydreaming, balancing your diet and getting into a rhythm of eating well…)
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