{Eating}

Wings & a Prayer

7.28.11
photos by gluttonforlife

Just a month ago, I was waxing poetic to you about wings. If you still haven’t made a batch, I want to urge you to give it a whirl. They’re delightful as an hors d’oeuvre or snack, but they’re also great as the centerpiece of a meal. I know my way is more involved than simply coating them in barbecue sauce and sticking them in the oven, but that doesn’t begin to do them justice. To get the perfect combination of rich, silky meat and crisp, sticky skin, you really need to add in a couple more steps. You don’t need to get all crazy like David Chang, who brines his wings, then poaches them in duck fat, then smokes them and then grills them. Although they’re sublime. I’ll let you skip the smoking step. But brining, poaching and grilling is the way to go. None of it requires much attention, but you’ll snap to when you bite into your winged masterpiece.

 

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{Eating, Travel}

Turning Japanese

12.17.10
photos by george billard

Cold weather means hot pots which means trips to Mitsuwa, the Japanese superstore in Edgewater, New Jersey. It’s on our way home from the city, and we take special delight in our visits there. For one thing, they have the most spectacular soft-serve ice cream in flavors like green tea and black sesame. I’m especially obsessed with the sesame, which is a murky purple color and so smoothly, sweetly seductive you could almost swoon. The enormous store contains aisles of ingredients—from produce to rice to fresh seafood—as well as kitchen tools (rice cookers), a bakery, an extensive sake selection, and several small restaurants serving udon, ramen, katsu, etc. In short, it’s tough to get out of there in a hurry. You’ll find yourself examining 10 kids of miso and 20 kinds of soy sauce. I have discovered wonderful quick-cooking brown rice; little jars of yuzu kosho and shichimi togarashi; and fresh chrysanthemum leaves. As I’ve mentioned before, I highly recommend you delve into the world of hot pots. These one-pot meals are super healthy, warming and hearty, and ideal for one or two people. Read the rest of this entry »

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{Eating, Health}

The Nori Story

11.9.10
photos by gluttonforlife

Although nori was originally a more generic word in Japanese, referring to a variety of seaweed types, it now refers only to the red alga Porphyra, sometimes known as laver. Nori is produced through a highly advanced form of agriculture, grown attached to nets suspended at the sea surface. It is processed in a method very similar to what was used for making paper in Japan, and the final product is a translucent, greenish-black dried sheet that’s about 7″x8″. As with most things Japanese, nori is available in several grades. At the high end is delicate shin-nori from the first of the year’s several harvests, which can cost up to $50 per sheet. I buy the roasted yakishushi nori, which would be familiar to you from its use as a sushi wrap. It can also be toasted and flavored for use in other dishes or finely shredded and scattered on rice or stir fries. It is faintly saline with a distinctive marine flavor that is rich in umami. It toasts up quickly in the oven and, when brushed with a little sesame oil and sprinkled with sea salt and sesame seeds, it’s crunchy and positively addictive. Oh, and virtually calorie-free.


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{Eating, Garden}

Shiso Creative

10.20.10

photos by gluttonforlife

I’m crazy about shiso and was thrilled that we were able to grow several plants in our garden this summer. Turns out they like a spot that is a bit shadier, neither wet nor dry. We had to rescue armloads of the stuff before the first frost as it immediately and tragically goes black and limp. But then there I was with tons of shiso and only a few ideas as to how to use it. I’ve always enjoyed the crystallized shiso leaves, coated in a brittle crust of sugar, that are part of the dessert plate at Matsuri, but I couldn’t really see making them at home. And I do like the pickled umeboshi-plum-and-shiso roll that is on every classic sushi menu, but that would use up just a few leaves at most. I did go ahead and make a simple syrup infused with the smaller quantity of red shiso I had—great for cocktails and to mix with soda water—but that still left me with vast quantities of the green. A quick scan of the web revealed virtually no inspiration, aside from an edamame salad enlivened with chopped shiso. So I put on my special Glutton’s Thinking Cap (looks something like this, or perhaps this), gazed deep into the vast recesses of the fridge, and came up with a rather inventive way to use large handfuls of deliciously pungent, minty shiso.


i find the red and green basically interchangeable but some say the red is sharper

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{Eating, Travel}

Captain Beefheart

7.28.10
takashi inoue & jake dickson    photos by george billard

The very day the Times gave Takashi a rave review, Dickson’s announced it would be co-hosting a special dinner there, featuring an all-beef menu from a single steer it would supply. As a big fan of Dickson’s, conscientiously-raised beef, Korean barbecue and adventurous eating, I couldn’t really pass up the opportunity. Takashi—the name of the chef and his restaurant—opened in April in Manhattan’s West Village, and seems to be occupying a new space in the city’s dining landscape. The food is in the style of yakiniku, a Japanese version of Korean barbecue that originated in Japan during the Second World War, when many thousands of Koreans were conscripted into the Japanese army and brought to the island to work. Chef Takashi Inoue’s grandmother is Korean and runs a small yakiniku restaurant in Osaka. Takashi came to the United States three years ago to study English, met Saheem Ali—then a theater director, now the restaurant’s general manager—and together they opened this small restaurant. The quality of the meat on offer is fantastic. At the dinner we attended, it all came from one steer that had been provided by Dickson’s. It was a real adventure in nose-to-tail eating, and one that honored Dickson’s fine beef, Takashi’s original cooking, and the magnificent animal that made it all possible. Read the rest of this entry »

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{Eating}

Mi-So Divine

4.14.10

photo by Sarah Shatz (courtesy Food52)

Although there’s a lot to be said for a chicken roasted in the classic manner, and I’m quite pleased with my own herb-laden, butter-smeared Scarborough Fair version, I may never make it again. Why? Because that gorgeously bronzed, deceptively simple chicken pictured above is quite possibly The Best Chicken Ever. At least that’s what my guests claimed as they scarfed it down the other night.  And you’ll probably concur. I strongly urge you to make it right away. The recipe is from Tim Wu who shoots the videos for Food52, where it was an editor’s pick and garnered quite an impressive number of fans. (Misoyaki means grill in Japanese.) He has you marinate the bird in a paste of red miso and sweet mirin before popping it in a hot oven. As it roasts, you make a sauce of onions, garlic, soy sauce and mirin that is finished with a little butter and more miso. It’s incredibly easy and the chicken emerges so juicy and full of flavor, with a crisp, salty, caramelized skin that’s truly delectable. The onion sauce would seem like gilding the lily if it didn’t go so perfectly with the rice you’ll be serving alongside. I like a Japanese short grain, preferably the brown kind, if you can find it. Cook up some greens (we had quick-sauteed collards) and you’ve got a simple meal that’s impressive enough for company but easy enough to make all the time. Which you will want to. Read the rest of this entry »

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{Eating}

Condimental: Spice Girl

3.1.10
photo by george billard

If you’ve ever been out for Japanese food (not just sushi, but maybe soba or yakitori or hot pots), you may have noticed a little red shaker on the condiment tray. That’s shichimi togarashi, a Japanese spice blend traditionally eaten on noodles, soups and stews. It’s made from a combination of seven spices (shichi means seven in Japanese), most commonly ground red chili pepper, dried orange peel, black sesame, white sesame, ginger, ground sansho, and nori flakes or powder. You’ll often also see a little green shaker alongside, and that’s just plain sansho, a berry from the prickly ash tree that is a relative of the Sichuan peppercorn. It has that same peppery-piney flavor that leaves a slight tingle on the tongue. You can find both these condiments at any Japanese market, or online at Japanese food specialty sites. Read the rest of this entry »

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{Eating, Health}

Hot Pot 101

1.6.10
hotpotclockwise from top: bonito flakes, turnips, mizuna, shiitake mushrooms, negi and daikon, all resting on a piece of kombu
(photo by george billard)

I’m winding down from my juice fast. Three days seems like enough this time. My emotions were very front and center today. This can happen when you fast. You become a little vulnerable. Seriously, I’m not being a drama queen. (I’m no Saint Teresa of Ávila, performing devotions of ecstasy, but allow me my little musings, won’t you?) I’ve been working hard on some advertising projects for Target and I may need a few more carbohydrates for brain power. But I have definitely noticed how easy it is to get by on a lot less food. A LOT less. I’m going to try and remember that the next time I’m packing in three squares. OK, yes, I am talking about calorie restriction. (Gasp!) Apparently, it helps you live longer. Not entirely sure that’s what I’m striving for; I’ll settle for fitting into some of my skinnier jeans. I’ve just made a pot of very simple vegetable soup: onion, cabbage, celery, carrot, spinach and parsley. Big hunks of everything simmered together in water with a little salt, until it all gets soft. This is the perfect way to break a fast and it’s actually quite delicious, clean-tasting and a little sweet. (Also good for when you’re sick as it delivers a lot of vital green nutrition and doesn’t tax your organs.) It’s best to come off a fast gently, although I’ve also been known to cram a fried chicken drumstick doused with Tabasco sauce in my mouth. This time, I’ll hopefully segue to a hot pot for tomorrow evening, using my new donabe and a bunch of ingredients G picked up at Mitsuwa, the mecca for Japanese cooking (and eating) in Edgewater, New Jersey.


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