Top Banana


photos by gluttonforlife

I turned 49 yesterday. Slightly surreal. I’m a little thicker around the middle than I’d like to be, but otherwise I’m pretty damn happy with things. I’ve always been a little superstitious about the evil eye, never wanting to call too much attention to my good fortune. I remember my mother telling me about a moment she had while driving, feeling the sun on her face, the breeze in her hair, and thinking to herself Everything is wonderful and then, suddenly, my dad was diagnosed with cancer and her own health began to fail rapidly. Life can change seemingly in an instant, which is why we must pay such close attention to the here and now, seeking joy in the moment. Lofty ambitions and long-term plans have their place, but there’s also something invaluable in the simplest pastimes: a long walk in the snow; organizing your drawers; playing catch; baking a loaf of banana bread.

 

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Forbidden Fruit


photos by gluttonforlife

The grapefruit (Citrus × paradisi) is an 18th-century hybrid first bred in Barbados, a subtropical citrus tree known for its pleasingly sour fruit. It was originally named the “forbidden fruit,” though until the 19th century it was called “shaddock.” (Huh?)  Its current name alludes to the cluster formations of the fruit on the tree, which look like grapes. My in-laws sent us a baker’s dozen from Florida last week, and they are ruby red inside and bursting with juice. My first thought? Sorbet. Read the rest of this entry »

Talking Turkey


photos by george billard

Thanksgiving is two weeks away and this is no time to bury your head in the sand and pretend like it’s going to sort itself out. I’m a big control freak advocate of advance planning and you know deep down it really does help prevent all those 11th-hour meltdowns and kitchen hissy-fits, not to mention mediocre meals. Just give in to your inner Martha (the ultimate Higher Power) and get organized as hell. It’s all about making lists, my friends! Devise your menu; compile your recipes; pull together your shopping list (checking the pantry to make sure you have those items you’re “sure” are there but haven’t actually seen in a year) and then make a schedule—yes, a schedule—so you’ll remember to start brining the turkey days in advance, and so you can prepare everything possible ahead of time (stock, pie crust, etc). It’s a highly tactical operation.

 

Before you move on to the rest of this post, please check out the photo, above. It’s from last Thanksgiving. I’ve been hoarding it all year so you could see how our turkey turned out. Not bad, eh? Of course I’ve cropped it so you can’t really make out where all the bits of skin stuck to the side of the way-too-small aluminum pan and tore off, but still. Read on to find out how not to have that happen…

 

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Carrot Tops


photos by gluttonforlife

Ladies and gentlemen (but mostly ladies), we have a winner! It’s my pleasure to announce that Jeannie Hensel will soon be receiving a package from Tate’s Bake shop! Congratulations, Jeannie! I hope your son loves these delicious treats. Please email me at gluttonforlife (at) gmail (dot) com and include your mailing address so I can pass it along to Tate’s.

 

The rest of you can console yourselves by ordering some Tate’s cookies and brownies here, or by whipping up a batch of these delectable carrot cake cupcakes, which can easily be made gluten-free should you so choose. I’m really sorry I don’t have a photo of the final frosted version, but sometimes life takes precedence over blogging. (Rarely, but sometimes!) I made these last week for Stephanie’s birthday, from the same low-fat recipe I used to make her cake last year. The cupcake version also went over like a house on fire—and why not? These babies are rich but fluffy, loaded with carrot and pineapple, studded with golden raisins, slicked with an irresistible cream cheese frosting and finished with a sprinkling of candied ginger. Bring it, Tate’s! Read the rest of this entry »

Sweet Bread


photos by gluttonforlife

Don’t get your knickers in a twist, I’m not giving you a recipe to prepare strange and frightening innards. Not that I wouldn’t! But no, this is considerably more tame. Although I hope it make take you out of your comfort zone as far as baked goods go. Why? Because it’s made with a lot of buckwheat flour and that can have scary health-food store connotations. Trust me, you don’t need to be wearing Birkenstocks to go for this delicious cake. It’s actually inspired by an incredible muffin from Peels that I’ve enjoyed on several occasions. The pastry chef there, Shuna Fish Lydon, really rocks, as you can see by her blog, not to mention her addictive graham crackers, brown butter rice krispie cubes and other tweaked-homestyle treats. I’ve lauded her skills before.

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Letting Off Steam


photos by gluttonforlife

This year, I hope to bring you with me a little more often into the world of South Asian cooking. Having traveled in India, Vietnam, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Indonesia, I’ve been fortunate to experience many of these flavors in their countries of origin, but my real culinary knowledge of them I owe to Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, authors of two seminal—and well-thumbed—volumes: Hot Sour Salty Sweet and Mangoes & Curry Leaves. They track their recipes to the source, often cooking in humble homes alongside matriarchs of the region, and they really believe in simple authentic dishes. Mangoes & Curry Leaves features the cuisine of the Subcontinent—Pakistan, India, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and the Maldives—so you can imagine the rich variety. I’m sharing a recipe for dhokla, a Gujarati specialty that’s essentially a steamed bread. The recipe looks long, but it’s really a very simple process, and the result is light and delicious (and gluten-free). So you don’t become discouraged about trying these recipes, please find a source for South Asian ingredients. A market in Little India? An online resource? It’s exciting to try something new, and a great way to vary both your diet and your repertoire.

 

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Liquid Sunshine


photos by gluttonforlife

Indian summer. We bandy that phrase around quite a bit at this time of year, hoping to conjure up those crisp, sunny days. The expression has been used for more than three centuries, first described in 1778 by John Hector St. John de Crevecoeur, a French-American writer in rural New York: “A severe frost prepares it to receive the voluminous coat of snow which is soon to follow; though it is often preceded by a short interval of smoke and mildness, called the Indian Summer.” Its etymology is debated. In Colonial New England, Indian Summer referred only to a January thaw, when Native American raiding parties could be expected in the western and northern areas; the ground had briefly lost its snow cover so tracking the raiders back to their winter camps was much more difficult for the Colonials. Or perhaps it’s because this was the traditional period during which early Native Americans harvested their crops of squash and corn. The modern use of the term refers to a period when the weather is sunny, clear and above 70º, after there has been a sharp frost; a period normally associated with late-October to mid-November. It’s also used metaphorically to refer to a late blooming of something, often unexpectedly, or after it has lost relevance. (See “middle-aged women.”) We haven’t actually had the first frost yet—though the temperatures veered awfully close just this morning—but, after a week or two of brisker day, we’re expecting a veritable heatwave—77º this weekend. I’m not sure how I feel about that, though it may mean we get to pull a few more tomatoes off the vine. For those of you still reaping summer’s bounty, cook it down to the essence of sunshine: a brilliant yellow, sharp and fruity Sunshine Sauce.

 

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The Ask: Shawn Askinosie


shawn askinosie (all photos courtesy of askinosie)

You may remember a post from a couple of months ago about a fantastic chocolate company, Askinosie. Not only do I love their chocolate, but I love what they stand for and how they give back. The Candy Man is a cultural icon—a jolly, twinkly-eyed fellow with a big heart and a fondness for children—and while Shawn Askinosie is nowhere near as eccentric as Willy Wonka, I do think he delights in the power of chocolate.


About 10 years ago, Shawn’s career as a criminal defense attorney began to exact too high a toll. He was arguing back-to-back murder cases, and you only have to watch so much Law & Order to know how stressful that would be. But he couldn’t really see any way clear of it, so he began to pray that an alternative would reveal itself. At the same time, he tried distracting himself with cooking, which led to baking, which led to an obsession with cupcakes (which even led to a pilgrimage to New York’s Magnolia Bakery). After about 5 years of this, he up and decided he was going to try his hand at making his own chocolate, from scratch. At the time, he had no concept of what this even meant, but within 2 months he was up to his elbows in cocoa beans in the Amazon. We should all be so bold.


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The Right Stuff(ing)


photo by Sarah Shatz for Food52

Stuffing! What can I say? If you’re not still eating at your mother’s table, you just want to recreate her stuffing recipe and aren’t really interested in anything different. Right? Well, on the off chance that there is someone out there willing to try something new, I’ll offer you a few suggestions. There are so many schools of stuffing, from cornbread and sausage to sourdough and sage to sticky rice and water chestnuts. Stuffing reflects tradition and ethnicity perhaps even more than the turkey. And of course there are always the questions of to stuff or not to stuff, and m***t or crispy. Above is the winning ciabatta and chorizo stuffing from Food52′s contest last year. It features garlicky cubes of bread with chorizo, shiitakes and sweet potato. Another interesting option is this prune and apple stuffing posted by Amanda Hesser. Read the rest of this entry »

The Value of Pie


photo from the new york times

Pie is having a renaissance, although I’m not sure it ever really went away. As discussed in this recent NY Times article, it’s about to kick the cupcake off its frosted throne. Yea! As a country, we’ve got quite a lot invested in the notion of pie. Just like us damn Yankees, it runs the gamut from down-home (tamale pie) to drop-dead glamorous (Baked Alaska). The best pie I’ve ever eaten was at a tiny shack somewhere near Nashville during a random stop on a cross-country drive. I still remember the shatteringly flaky crust (thanks to lard, no question) and the tangy, juicy fresh whole blackberries. My own sour cherry version is a princess among pies, a slice of summer on a plate, best eaten in July with a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream. My father had a weakness for pecan pie, that tooth-achingly sweet confection loaded with nuts and Karo syrup. And I have always looked forward to the pumpkin pie on Thanksgiving. But when it really came down to it, I realized that all I truly crave is the custard. It’s that smooth, silky consistency I adore, the delicate balance of spices and a subtle sweetness—not the soggy cardboard crust, made worse by everyone’s insistence on keeping pie in the fridge. (Where we know baked goods don’t improve!) Besides, in this gluten-free household, I have come to realize that eating all that flour is what leaves you feeling bloated and puffy and gross. Especially on Thanksgiving, when you know you are going to load your plate with stuffing and Parker house rolls, maybe dessert is the time to think outside the crust. Or maybe not. Either way, here are a few suggestions for next week’s finale.


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