{Eating}

Mi-So Divine

4.14.10

photo by Sarah Shatz (courtesy Food52)

Although there’s a lot to be said for a chicken roasted in the classic manner, and I’m quite pleased with my own herb-laden, butter-smeared Scarborough Fair version, I may never make it again. Why? Because that gorgeously bronzed, deceptively simple chicken pictured above is quite possibly The Best Chicken Ever. At least that’s what my guests claimed as they scarfed it down the other night.  And you’ll probably concur. I strongly urge you to make it right away. The recipe is from Tim Wu who shoots the videos for Food52, where it was an editor’s pick and garnered quite an impressive number of fans. (Misoyaki means grill in Japanese.) He has you marinate the bird in a paste of red miso and sweet mirin before popping it in a hot oven. As it roasts, you make a sauce of onions, garlic, soy sauce and mirin that is finished with a little butter and more miso. It’s incredibly easy and the chicken emerges so juicy and full of flavor, with a crisp, salty, caramelized skin that’s truly delectable. The onion sauce would seem like gilding the lily if it didn’t go so perfectly with the rice you’ll be serving alongside. I like a Japanese short grain, preferably the brown kind, if you can find it. Cook up some greens (we had quick-sauteed collards) and you’ve got a simple meal that’s impressive enough for company but easy enough to make all the time. Which you will want to. Read the rest of this entry »

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{Eating}

Playing Chicken

3.6.10


Another week gone by and, I’m pleased to say, another two of my recipes singled out by the editors of Food52. I still haven’t actually won any of their contests, but lots of honorable mentions do add up. This time it was my Scarborough Fair Chicken and my Golden Rösti (made from yellow beets). I’ll share the former with you first. My dear friend Marilee was recently asking me for a good roast chicken recipe, and I think this one is deliciously reliable. The name, of course, refers to the old English ditty and the herbs mentioned therein: parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme. Add some butter, lemons and shallots, and you’re in serious business. The chicken you use really matters—and here I’m going to flog the organic argument once again. Despite the American propensity for enormous breasts, they’re just not worth keeping our chickens in captivity in order to force-feed them the required diet of (subsidized) corn. Go for a nice free-range roaster and you’ll enjoy better flavor and a freer conscience. Read the rest of this entry »

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{Eating}

Curry in a Hurry

2.21.10
photo by george billard

These are the cans of Maesri Thai curry paste that I have written about before. They save you so much time and you’ll sacrifice scarcely anything in terms of flavor or quality. They are free of artificial ingredients and preservatives, and their 15 varieties very faithfully replicate both traditional and more unusual curries, from green to red. (The masaman curry paste, for instance, contains garlic, sugar, soybean oil, dried red chiles, tamarind juice, shallots, salt, lemongrass, coriander, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, bay leaves, galangal, cloves, kaffir lime and citric acid.) My friend Andrée recently appealed to me for some advice on the menu for a dinner party she was hostessing for 10 friends, and a delicious masaman curry was my first thought. With sticky rice and a sweet-tart cucumber salad, this dish makes a simple but slightly exotic meal that few can resist. For dessert, I suggested an easy and supremely refreshing combination of fresh pineapple with grated ginger, chopped mint and lime juice. Read the rest of this entry »

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{Eating, Health}

Asian Avian

12.30.09
raw_chickensillustration by janice richter

Isn’t there something faintly S&M about this illustration? I just love it. Kudos to Jan Richter for her great eye and accomplished technique. (And I happen to know she makes a mean coq au vin.) This is just the sort of plump organic bird you want to find when you’re setting out to make any number of cold-weather dishes. G makes the classic Jewish penicillin when I get sick (about once a year, knock wood) but I often look further east for something therapeutic. This recipe tips its hat to a classic Hispanic arroz con pollo but shifts gears with anti-inflammatory turmeric; lots of warming, healing ginger; and a hit of fish sauce. I think it’s similar to the Filipino arroz caldo. You keep cooking the rice so it’s somewhere between risotto and congee, that perfect comforting texture. And the bright yellow color is like a ray of sunshine. Read the rest of this entry »

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{Eating, Garden}

Tomatillos = Little Green Tomatoes?

9.25.09
photo 2 by george billard

The answer is no, Einstein. Tomatillos are actually part of the nightshade family, related to the gooseberry. This all becomes clear once you focus on the papery husk. I’ve heard the ripe fruit can be yellow or even purple, but I’ve only ever seen them this clear green color. They are sweet-tart with a bright citrusy taste. We grew two enormous bushes this summer that towered over everything in the vegetable garden, attracted industrious armies of bees, resisted the ceaseless downpour (or maybe thrived on it?) and produced vast quantities of perfect tomatillos just smaller than a golfball. What then to do with all this bounty? Read the rest of this entry »

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