The Saag-a Continues


photo by george billard

Just wanted to update you on how my saag paneer turned out. Maybe you’ll be inspired to go back and try the recipe. If you can’t face the (incredibly easy and satisfying) task of making your own paneer, you can look for it at a local Indian market (try upstairs at Kalustyan’s if you’re in New York City) or even substitute cubes of firm tofu. Now that I think of it, maybe you could try farmer’s cheese which is basically the same thing and which I often see at Fairway or Whole Foods! Anyway, this is a lovely dish and an exciting delivery system for healthy greens.

Ruminating (Goat vs Cow)


goatcheesephoto by george billard

One of the many nice things I’ve discovered in moving up to the country is that I can do a bit more ruminating. Not in the most literal sense, of course. I’ve only got one stomach (although sometimes it may look like two). And unlike cattle, goats, sheep, giraffes, bison, yaks, water buffalo, deer, camels, alpacas, llamas, wildebeest and antelope (I love lists), I am not required to chew my cud. But I do find that I now have time to tromp up an abandoned fire road in the rose-colored dusk, side-stepping slick patches of ice; or stare into the fire mesmerized as I absently stroke the cat’s underfluff; or lie on the couch in a rare pool of afternoon sunshine, daydreaming of shallot-beef broth with cheese dumplings or buckwheat crepes or lemon soufflé (all three coming soon, I promise). And during those moments, I can turn a few thoughts over in my mind. Like common pebbles in a tumbler, they start to lose their rough edges, give off a greater luster. Maybe. Anyway, one of the things I’ve lately been runimating on, if you will, is my estrangement from cow’s milk. Read the rest of this entry »

Take Your Lumps


gnocchiphoto by george billard

Gnocchi means “lumps” in Italian. Not an especially glamorous name, and I can’t say the ones I made were nearly as ethereal in texture as those we ate at Union Square Cafe (see 12/18 post). This traditional Italian dish has been around for a couple of thousand years at least, spread through Europe by the Roman Legions and made according to whatever was at hand: potatoes, wheat flour, semolina, bread crumbs, ricotta. The French even make a version with choux pastry, but that’s neither here nor there. I made mine with a delicious sheep’s-milk ricotta and served them with a rosemary-infused brown butter, but I suspect they may have suffered slightly because I used gluten-free flour. They were perhaps not as light and springy as they will be for you, using unbleached all-purpose. Next time, I may try gnudi instead, as they call for less flour (but also require that you drain the cheese and refrigerate the dough at several points), or perhaps just pair the gnocchi with a heartier sauce (roasted tomato? porcini mushroom?) that can stand up to the slightly denser gluten-free texture. Read the rest of this entry »

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