Yes, yes, the hair is mostly grey now. People congratulate me on having a “good” color of grey. But what if it weren’t “good”? What if I had a weird, ashy, muddy color? Would I be forced to keep coloring it in order to look “good”? There is often some level of discomfort when I get into these conversations, because inevitably people (read: women) start to question their own commitment to artificial color. I do not judge. I religiously colored my hair for 15 years and, if the inconvenience of spending precious city time in the salon chair were not a factor, I might still be doing it. But the move upstate and all it has engendered do seem to have connected me to a more authentic expression of myself I find gratifying. That said, this post is about a different sort of grey altogether. Read on to find out more, and to check out my latest list of inspiring links.

grizzled comeback

I refer, of course, to The Grey, the new flick from Liam Neeson, the acclaimed actor who has been reincarnated as a fierce yet vulnerable action star. (If you haven’t seen Seraphim Falls, Taken or Unknown, you’ve missed out on this new persona.) Essentially an outlandish chase, The Grey, directed by Joe Carnahan (Smokin’ Aces, Narc) is the story of a motley crew of plane-crash survivors endeavoring to elude the pack of ravenous wolves stalking them through a frigid Arctic landscape.

huffing and puffing

The film works as a blunt and brutal thriller, but when it strays into more existential territory I thought it got a touch heavy-handed. This doesn’t mean I can resist Mr. Neeson’s wounded blue eyes and fierce leadership. I would follow him into the belly of the beast.

Heading in a different direction? Here are a few distractions for the weekend…

This fascinating TED talk about our relationship to technology

Some more ideas about how to ditch the city for good

A new magablog (did I just write that?) from the natural foodists (and that?) at Pressed Juice

Something excellent for your favorite kitchen compulsive (and the site has tons of other fun stuff)

A compelling reason to get to Philly early in the morning (notice who makes the spices)

Another fun alternative to the deli cup

My favorite things to sleep/lounge/loll about in

A bottomless pit of inspired imagery

A fabulous new oxymoron: locally-made copper

Another reason to dream of spring

The long-awaited answer to What on earth do I do with this?

The perfect Valentine’s Day gift for yourself

Have a beautiful weekend! xo

TO HELP STOP THE INTERNET CENSORSHIP BILLS, SOPA & PIPA, CONTACT CONGRESS NOW.

What a week. I’m not one of those people who’s constantly posting on Facebook about how much they hate Monday or how excited they are that it’s Friday. I don’t live for the weekend. But I kind of want this Friday the 13th to be over so I can leave the week behind. Let’s just say the highlight was emphatically not spilling tea on my laptop and melting down into what can officially be called an adult tantrum. In the end, thanks to the quick thinking and soothing ministrations of my husband, it all turned out OK. What did I learn? That my laptop IS MY LIFE. (Also, not to have teetering cups of liquid near it…but I’ve “learned” that before.)

What, then, was the week’s highlight? I’d have to say it was another great day in the city. Truly, New York City at its best. I’ve been finding it rather energizing these days. From Howard, above, who sells his collection of foraged driftwood from a tarp near Union Square; to the lovely people at Marni in SoHo, who helped me find the perfect shearling jacket on sale; to the über-talented Lior Lev Sercarz, mixing up radical spice blends in his gallery/atelier on the West Side, the whole place seems to be pulsing with good creative energy.

howard’s finds from along the hudson

i bought the piece in the foreground ($15)

Of course I’m crazy for buying wood in the city when I live in a forest, but I like to support street artists.

mad spice-entist

I have mentioned La Boîte before, Lior Lev Sercarz’ spice business—and I want to devote an entire post just to him—but here is a profile to check out now if you’re interested. I bought four of his spice blends (even though I covet dozens and dozens more) and a box of his biscuits that I will save for a very special occasion.

part of the fatty chain

The day concluded with a couple of Aperol Spritzes at the bar at Otto, followed by a delicious dinner at Zac Pelaccio’s latest Fatty ‘Cue in the West Village.

standout dishes included this fried pork belly with green sauce

and this pretzel bread with ham and fermented-shrimp-dusted butter

As I look back over the week, I realize I came across so many inspiring things, in two and three dimensions. Here are a bunch more for you to peruse when you get a moment this weekend.

I want to use this on everything from toast to roast chicken to sesame noodles.

I must try absolutely everything from here, starting with the Amère Nouvelle.

This is the perfect companion to my favorite Zen koan: There is no way to happiness. Happiness is the way.

I love these tips for creating order, something which cannot be recommended enough.

And who wouldn’t want to get organized with these? And these?

If you can’t get to Dickson’s for jerky, I though these looked like a good option.

If, as I am, you are still befuddled by apps, you may find this helpful; and possibly this.

Ready for a little wanderlust? Peruse this list and you’ll soon be reaching for your passport.

Watch this to understand why I’m dreaming of a Nordic vacation.

If you love Downton Abbey, this will undoubtedly capture your fancy as well. (Damien Lewis and Gina McKee, both giving genius performances, make for the most insanely dysfunctional couple ever!)

If you’ve heard about these new curated retail sites but haven’t known which one to try, this is the one I recommend.

Ever obsessed with tea, I think some of these are in order; and also this.

And I pretty much lost my mind dreaming up possibilities for these.

At some point, you’ll want to stop daydreaming and head out into the world, and if you’re in New York, the Manhattan Users Guide comes in very handy. It features interesting activities like these wonderful classes from my friend, the amazingly talented artist Anne Watkins.

Have a lovely weekend! Make the most of every moment…

On New Year’s Eve, just before midnight, we went for a much-needed hike along a country road, four of us and a white dog that showed up like a ghostly spectre against the pitch-black night. We huffed and puffed in the bracing air, our stomachs heavy with brisket, risotto and many flavors of Jeni’s ice cream, straight from the source and drizzled with various homemade sauces (salty caramel, bittersweet chocolate, raspberry). It was actually the second hike of the day for G and me. That afternoon, we’d walked deep into the woods as we had our annual chat, reflecting back on the year gone by and discussing our hopes for one ahead. 2011 got a mixed review, mostly due to a certain broken leg that took the better part of 8 months (and counting) to fully heal. We are both committed to getting into fighting shape this winter and planning some physically challenging trips in the coming years, possibly including climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro. But in general we want to simply continue on our paths, doing more of what we love and getting better at it.

Here are a few highlights from the year, as I shared it with you in this space we inhabit together. The first is the multi-tasking goddess, above, a new icon for my blog commissioned from illustrator extraordinaire Liselotte Watkins.

a meating of minds

The amazing Mrs. Wheelbarrow initiated the madness that is Charcutepalooza, and I participated for a few months (until I had to fly off to Indonesia). I learned to make my own pancetta and sausage!

nice to sea you

There was fun in the sun in Todos Santos, Mexico, and Antigua.

a warm welcome to indonesia

I flew to the rescue of my injured husband, and wound up having a blast in the markets of Yogyakarta.

the sights and tastes were endlessly exotic

the culture there is ancient and rich

back home, we managed to get the garden going

and even hosted our annual july 4th bbq (my hero!)

i spent lots of time in the woods

and they yielded an incredible bounty of mushrooms

beyond my wildest dreams (oh, and my grey hair grew in)

there were fruity cocktails

and preserving galore

fun road trips

and countless outings in the city

the glory of eating only from local farms

and many treats from my own kitchen

there were shared bonfires

quiet evenings at home

and others out in the world

in all things, i was aided and abetted by the divine titi

and my own true love (making a rare appearance)

Remember, it’s about wanting what you have, not having what you want.

What’s on your mind for 2012? I’d love to know what you’d like to discover this year, and where you’d like me to take you. Do tell…

Fast away the old year passes. The excitement with which we welcome the new is resoundingly optimistic. What is it about stepping into the future that fills us with such hope? Meanwhile, the older I get the quicker the time goes. It’s like it has a new momentum, a special determination to slip away from me. Merrily, merrily, merrily, merrily, life is but a dream. I will not be daunted. I will grab each moment and ride it, bucking and swaying, into the golden sunset. I can scarcely believe that it’s been two years since I launched this blog, a true labor of love. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support. As I humbly say, without you, I’m nothing. For 2012, I am resolving to remain curious. To keep learning and evolving. To welcome new people, places and things. To eat, drink and be merry. To stay fit. To cultivate strength, resilience and endurance. To cherish what I have. To be patient and kind (with myself and others). And, to echo one of Woody Guthrie’s 1942 resolutions, to “dream good.”

I hope this weekend brings you further opportunity to chill, space out, hang and unwind. Here are some links to help you while away a few idle hours. I wish you a celebratory New Year’s Eve and a very delicious 2012.

Why don’t you…

Make a refreshing, healthy snack.

this is my version of it

Assemble the perfect bar.

And, if you get too carried away with it on New Year’s Eve, consult these remedies.

Help your little ones re-engage with books.

Support a good cause.

Expand your horizons.

Learn to clarify stock.

Join me in thumbing through my new cookbooks, including this one, this one, this one, this one and this one.

Stock up on healthy ingredients.

Commit to a practice.

Laugh your ass off.

Much love,

Laura

We came. We cocktailed. We conquered. I feel hungover this morning, but not from drinking. Last night’s event was both energizing and exhausting, and I think we can say it was an unqualified success. More than 200 people turned up at Warby Parker’s Holiday Spectacle Bazaar to visit Best Made Company‘s pop-up shop and sip Glutton for Life cocktails made with foraged ingredients and Stranahan’s Colorado whiskey. Although I think of myself as a bit of a grumpy misanthrope at times, I was deeply happy interacting with all the lovely people (old friends and new) that stopped by my little makeshift bar to sample the evening’s three specialties: The Nutty Professor, Pining for You and Drunken Indian Lemonade. The mood was very festive and everyone really seemed to be having a good time, especially after a cup of the Johnny Appleseed Punch.

truly spectacular

All hail, Warby Parker, for conceiving this ongoing holiday extravaganza, along with their co-horts, Partners and Spade. Not only do they make excellent, affordably priced and very stylish eyeglasses, but they are a company with a social conscience. And I would be remiss here if I failed to mention the three lovely muses, Kaki Read, Isabel Seely and Jamie Arendt. They went to heroic extremes to make sure last night’s event was a success and looked beautiful doing it.

a man on a mission

Kudos, too, to the always game and very debonair Peter Buchanan-Smith (above left), for inviting me to participate in such a great event. He is a true glutton for life, with an admirable approach to squeezing the most out of every moment. And he makes a mean axe.

axe me no questions

People were drooling over the gorgeous Best Made axes, on view and for sale through the weekend at the first yurt inside the Warby Parker Bazaar at 45 Grand Street. Every Williamsburger worth his whiskers should own one of these.

we are family

Things would have gone south very quickly for me behind that bar were it not for the support of my beloved sister-in-law (visible here for the first time). A recent graduate of ICE and currently spending time in the kitchen at Stone Barns (oh, the burning envy), she handled the chaos like a pro.

smart cookie

Other highlights included the truly scrumptious savory cocktail biscuits I ordered from CookiebarNYC, a new collaboration between the legendary Dorie Greenspan and her adorable son Josh. The two of them recently went on Martha Stewart’s show to talk about their new creations. I first learned about these adult cookies in November’s Food & Wine and meant to attempt to whip up some in my own kitchen. Casting about for something “brand-right” (can’t believe I just wrote that) to go with my cocktails, I found that you can now order these in quantity. We had 4 flavors, each one better than the next: cocoa-cayenne, cranberry 5-spice, sesame-sea salt and rosemary-parmesan.

wild things

I brought evidence of the foraged ingredients that went into my cocktails: white pine, black walnuts and red staghorn sumac. People were quite fascinated by all this nature stuff.

take a bough

White pine is loaded with vitamin C and was consumed by American Indians during the winter months to ward off the scurvy that plagued the pioneers. You can brew the needles for tea, or eat the tender inner parts of the bark. I made a simple syrup with honey and steeped the needles and thin branches in it. The flavor is very similar to the smell, though a bit more subtle: green, bracing, slightly sharp. I paired this syrup with lemon juice, the whiskey and a spritz of absinthe to finish which gave it an even greener, more herbal note. (If you can’t or won’t find fresh white pine, I recommend this as a substitute.)

nuts to you

The black walnuts were foraged from my friend Julia’s property and were something of an ordeal to extract. G said “never again.” Their shells are hard as a rock and the inner-workings so furled and gnarly that they require endless hours of excavating with small picks and nail files. The kind of obsessive work I actually enjoy, when I have unlimited time on hand, which is never. It was fun to give people a taste of the actual black walnuts, which are quite different from the usual kind. They have a strong umami element, an almost cheesy, winey, fermented flavor that is very rich and complex. I made a syrup with demerara sugar and steeped the walnuts in it overnight. This I combined with the whiskey and a bit of heavy cream for a truly delicious drink with a very unique flavor.

so sumac me

The American Indians also made a kind of tea with the velvety red cones of the staghorn sumac. Tart and beautifully scarlet, it earned the name Indian lemonade. If you can’t collect your own sumac, it’s easily found in the spice section because it’s a popular ingredient in Middle Eastern cuisine. Brew it as you would tea, and strain before using. It’s nice hot, with honey, or chilled and served over ice. I combined this “tea” with the whiskey and maple syrup for a riff on our house cocktail, The Eldred.

just saying

To those of you who stopped by, many thanks for sharing the moment. To all those who couldn’t make it, you were there in spirit. And now, you can head to the liquor cabinet and recreate these cocktails at home. Cheers!

(Note: I know I promised to post my holiday musical recommendations, but I’m afraid you’ll have to wait until Monday for that. I beg your pardon, dear readers…)

What a week. Did I mention I am making my first personal appearance for Glutton for Life? My dear friend Peter, he of Best Made fame, asked to me to participate in one of three evenings he is hosting at the Warby Parker Holiday Spectacle Bazaar, a SoHo pop-up happening (for lack of a better word) featuring stuff to eat, drink, buy, see and learn. It was initially pitched to me as a hands-on workshop for a couple dozen people, where I could talk about whatever I wanted—oh, and there’s a whiskey sponsor. So mixing cocktails seemed like a no-brainer. Then, to put my own little upstate spin on things, I decided to use foraged ingredients. This seemed to pique everyone’s interest. Done deal. Then, I find out they’re expecting upwards of 100 people. And I stop to consider that the dead of winter might not be the very best time to forage for ingredients. Um, time to regroup.

So I developed a punch recipe, using Stranahan’s malt whiskey, apple cider, Earl Grey tea and Best Made Company’s delicious New Hampshire maple syrup: Johnny Appleseed Punch. We’ll serve that up to the masses. And I managed to find some wild ingredients I can work with now: black walnut, white pine and sumac. Using these (and the whiskey, of course), I’ll be making 3 different cocktails for people to sample: The Nutty Professor, Pining for You, and Drunken Indian Lemonade. As you can imagine, I’ve been a little busy this week. I’m about to run and make 9 liters of my star-anise-flavored cider syrup for the punch.

By the way, you’re invited. Stop by and bring your friends!

Best Made Company’s Whiskey Workshop

co-hosted by Glutton for Life

at

Warby Parker’s Holiday Spectacle Bazaar

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 15th  6-8pm

45 Grand Street in New York City

I’ll be posting the punch and cocktail recipes tomorrow.

And my holiday music recommendations on Friday, I promise.

Oh, and if you’ve read this far, you’re probably curious to know if you won one of the bags of caramels. Guess what? I decided you’re all winners!! Everyone who posted a comment on last Thursday’s giveaway post will receive a bag! This means I have to make a couple of new batches, but I’ll do it gladly. My wonderful readers mean so much to me and I want to share something tangible with you. So send me your mailing address at gluttonforlife[at]gmail.com and I’ll do my best to get your packages out early next week. (Note: Friends who are already on “the list” should NOT expect a second bag!) xoxo

Thanksgiving is two weeks away and this is no time to bury your head in the sand and pretend like it’s going to sort itself out. I’m a big control freak advocate of advance planning and you know deep down it really does help prevent all those 11th-hour meltdowns and kitchen hissy-fits, not to mention mediocre meals. Just give in to your inner Martha (the ultimate Higher Power) and get organized as hell. It’s all about making lists, my friends! Devise your menu; compile your recipes; pull together your shopping list (checking the pantry to make sure you have those items you’re “sure” are there but haven’t actually seen in a year) and then make a schedule—yes, a schedule—so you’ll remember to start brining the turkey days in advance, and so you can prepare everything possible ahead of time (stock, pie crust, etc). It’s a highly tactical operation.

Before you move on to the rest of this post, please check out the photo, above. It’s from last Thanksgiving. I’ve been hoarding it all year so you could see how our turkey turned out. Not bad, eh? Of course I’ve cropped it so you can’t really make out where all the bits of skin stuck to the side of the way-too-small aluminum pan and tore off, but still. Read on to find out how not to have that happen…

great house

It seems like Thanksgiving may have permanently moved from the in-laws’ place in Lenox to the sister-in-law’s abode in Chappaqua. Last year, her house was undergoing some remodeling, but we were lucky enough to be able to stay in the lovely home of her architect, who was away visiting family. It was a cozy and comfortable house with a nice working kitchen and a great nook under the stairs next to the wood-burning stove.

the view from the hill

the act of trussing

For our turkey, we followed a technique that involves larding the breast with plenty of butter and then covering it with wine-soaked cheesecloth which helps prevent the dreaded dryness. Eventually you remove it and the skin browns beautifully. (Unfortunately, it seems the cheesecloth can sometimes stick to the skin and never the twain shall part.)

all dressed up and only one place to go

It turned out that the house did not come equipped with a roasting pan large enough to accommodate our gigantic bird, and this meant a harried last-minute trip to the (thankfully open) market where this measly aluminum pan was our only option. (See “making lists,” above.) A generously sized pan with ample room around your bird is essential for even cooking, proper browning and ease of handling. This one looks good; or this one. If you’re splurging, copper is the way to go.

the beginning of a beautiful gravy

I wasn’t deterred from making my favorite gravy, which starts out as a layer of onions, garlic and shallots upon which the bird roasts. Once the bird is done and resting, you just puree this glorious tangle of sweetness and drippings, adjust the seasoning with a little sage and sherry, and you’ve got a delicious gravy. See last year’s post for the recipe for this gravy and links to others.

But I think we’re going to go another route this year, back at my sister-in-law’s house. For one thing, she just graduated from culinary school and has all kinds of tricks up her sleeve. For another, we have two turkeys! We’re talking about possibly deep-frying one and for the other we’re going to follow the directions on this fun new site, Fudehouse, for a turkey that is dry brined—yes, DRY brined—then air-dried and doused with boiling water, all in an attempt to create a juicy and crispy bird. A thermometer is key to knowing when your turkey is done; something as elaborate as this, or as simple as this. Some other essential items include a brining bag; a baster; and a carving board, preferably one with a juice well. And a great apron for the chef!

Do me a favor and also watch their other video on the meaning of “fresh” when it comes to supermarket turkey; and then do yourself a favor and find a local/organic/heritage bird now if at all possible. Local Harvest still has some great options for pickup and mail order.

cornbread-sausage-cranberry stuffing

As far as stuffing goes, last year’s gluten-free version was a hit all around. It’s made with my favorite gluten-free cornbread, studded with chunks of Italian sausage, crunchy pecans and tangy cranberries. You can find the recipe here, along with a bunch of other stuffing ideas.

A preliminary menu discussion yielded these other possibilities for our feast: chicken consommé with tiny mushroom ravioli; spicy yams with pancetta; a green vegetable TBD; a salad TBD; pumpkin custard made this year in individual Weck jars; and the wine-poached apples from yesterday’s post. Hors d’oeuvres and cocktails are still up in the air…

And what are you making??

This past weekend’s journey upstate toward the Vermont border yielded not only a lesson in black Angus cattle, but two gallons of raw cow’s milk, some irresistible cider donuts and a couple of award-winning cheeses from the very beautiful Consider Bardwell Farm. (Those of you who have been reading this blog for a while may remember a mention of their cheeses way back when.) The 300-acre farm was founded in 1864 by the fortuitously named Consider Stebbins Bardwell, and became the the first cheese-making co-op in Vermont. Now owned by Angela Miller, literary agent to some of our most beloved culinary writers; her British husband, architect Russell Glover; Chris Gray; and master cheesemaker Peter Dixon, Consider Bardwell Farm makes cheese with the milk from its own herd of 100 Oberhasli (Swiss Alpine) goats and from neighboring farmer Lisa Kaimen’s herd of 30 Jersey cows. Rotational grazing on pesticide- and fertilizer-free pastures guarantees sweet, nutrient-rich milk that is also antibiotic- and hormone-free. The farm’s 6 cheeses are made by hand in small batches and aged on the grounds. No surprise, then, that they have repeatedly won awards at important cheese competitions here and abroad. All this to say, emphatically, Consider Bardwell’s cheeses are divine.

built like a brick house

The red-brick farmhouse, seen at the top, and a few outlying buildings are from the original farm and exude New England charm, especially against the backdrop of a perfect fall day.

get your goat

Oberhaslis, still relatively uncommon in this country, are a lovely russet color with upright ears. Sadly, these did not come running to the fence as do the kids at River Brook Farm.

every farm needs at least one dog: this is maynard

We were lucky to find Angela herself manning the farm’s little café where we ate butternut squash soup, homemade cookies and, of course, cheese from the farm. It was a cozy room with a roaring fire, a comfortable couch and a stack of books by Angela’s authors, including Mark Bittman, Eugenia Bone and Hank Shaw. She divides her time between Vermont and New York City, the energy of each place fueling her endeavors in the other.

the miller’s daughter

Angela is herself a published author, having written a memoir about how she came to run Consider Bardwell. I’ll have to read it to see if she shares her secret for successfully managing to be in two places at once.

say cheese

I brought home one goat’s milk cheese and one cow’s milk, both of which I had enjoyed before thanks to Lucy’s Whey, the cheese store I frequent in Chelsea Market. I love the red illustrations of the animals on the wrappers to distinguish the different types.

this is equinox

Equinox is an aged goat cheese that riffs on classic Italian hard cheeses like pecorino and piave. It has a sweet, herbaceous quality and is not at all chalky. I like it grated over hot pasta and it also goes very well with my spicy tomato jam.

this is pawlet

Pawlet, named for a nearby Vermont town, is a toma made from raw Jersey cow’s milk and aged just 4-6 months. It is creamy, almost unctuous, and has a pleasingly bright, grassy flavor. It makes a great grilled cheese, but also pairs well with a tart apple. Pawlet has twice been named a winner by the American Cheese Society, and most recently got the nod at the World Cheese Championship in the UK. Learn more about the farm’s cheeses and find out where they’re sold in your area on their website; and or go here to purchase them online. You can also enjoy them across the country at such bastions of fine dining as The French Laundry, Daniel, Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Gramercy Tavern.

my favorite kind of board game

I love cheese. If there were a religion that worshiped cheese, I might have to join. In fact, it may be no coincidence that so much great European cheese is made by nuns and monks. Truly nothing is more uplifting than the sight of a well-appointed cheese plate. (Want a slate of your own? I recommend these.) One with a nice balance between hard and creamy, strong and subtle, cow and goat. And inspired accompaniments are essential: crisp crackers, slivers of good bread, chutneys, nuts, honey, ripe fruits and pickles are all welcome.

in a pickle

Which brings me to these pickled onions. Make a big batch and they can live in your fridge for months, ideal for pairing with cheese—on a board, in a sandwich—and with roasted birds and meats.

the onion: allium cepa

You’ve undoubtedly heard of cipollini, those small, flattened Italian onions that are actually the bulbs of the grape hyacinth. They’re thin-skinned and have translucent white flesh full of residual sugar. They caramelize beautifully when slowly cooked so they’re wonderful roasted or braised, but they also work well in this pickle recipe, though you can use small onions of any sort, like pearl, or even the mini yellow ones I used, above.

the spice is right

You soak the onions overnight in salted water and then cook them briefly in a brine of sherry and malt vinegars loaded with spices. The whole lot is then jarred up and left to marinate and meld.

into the brine

The key is to let them sit for at least a month before you dive in. When you can wait no longer, you will discover that they are somewhere between crisp and pliant, sweet with a pleasing tartness that beautifully complements the richness of cheese. Did I mention that already?

through the glass darkly

I put mine in one of the vintage Mason jars I collect, and I think glass is best, what with all that vinegar. That way you can easily monitor when your stash is dwindling and prepare to make some more. Oh, and the remaining brine? It’s delicious mixed with club soda or gin…

This weekend’s visit to Washington County, on the Vermont border in upstate New York, was a blur of rolling hills fading from green to gold and bare silver birches gleaming against the turquoise skies. What a delight it was to stay at our friends’ comfy old farm house, sleeping in green flannel sheets and heading out in the morning to get fresh raw milk from the neighbors’ cows. My dear friend of nearly 30 years married into this farm at a time when her husband was getting ready to sell it, and she had to cry copious tears to prevent the sale. Thirteen years later, they’ve just purchased some black Angus cattle, a naturally hornless Scottish breed much used in beef production and, together with another farmer, are going to produce grass-fed beef. In her inimitable style, my friend Sarah has decided to start a cooperative to team up with other local beef producers so they can offer the consistent quality supply that the biggest and best markets require. Their first meeting was on Friday, and G and I were very interested to see what it was all about. But first, we had to meet the cows…

curious and yet shy

They are absolutely gorgeous! Very docile but also a little skittish. There were seven of them, some bolder than others, and tempted to come closer if you have crunchy bits of dried-apple biscuit in your outstretched palm. Inevitably this led to quite a bit of slobber all over hands and sleeves, but it turned out to be quite odorless and benign.

a little gentle grooming

The cattle have big beautiful pastures to roam and graze and in their travels had collected gnarly burrs in the scraggly hairs on their heads and in their ears. I managed to pull some out even though it was tricky to get them to stand still for long.

hanging with the homeboys

There is something very peaceful about being around the cattle, they’re such mellow creatures. Their big soulful black eyes, their hot breath…it’s kind of hard to imagine them as dinner. Sarah said she didn’t think she would be able to eat them, but I hope she changes her mind. (For a more extensive discussion of eating animals, please see here.)

nothing to grouse about

Luckily, Sarah wasn’t having any trouble planning dinner around the grouse her husband had shot that day. True to her English upbringing, she was hanging it in a cool study off the kitchen. If you’re not familiar with grouse, it’s basically a wild chicken and among the most prized of game birds. I’ve included a recipe below, along with one for bread sauce, the classic English accompaniment (also great with roast chicken, turkey and guinea hen).

it’s a family affair

Sarah has enlisted her young cousin Meagan to get their grass-fed beef cooperative off the ground. It’s been a lot of work wrangling the farmers; investigating potential buyers (from farmers markets to restaurants to the new glut of butchers); and enlisting the help of local representatives from Cornell University Cooperative Extension, who know a lot about applying for grants, state and federal laws and other relevant information.

raising cattle is serious business

Whether raising Angus, Belted Galloway or Hereford, the farmers who attended the first co-op meeting are all grazing their cattle on pasture. Some may finish them on grain for the last several weeks, as many people prefer the marbling and flavor this imparts. These are all small operations—most of them have fewer than 100 animals—and virtually all of them were having a hard time finding an educated and appreciative market for their beef. There is a glut of beef in Washington County, and the majority of locals simply won’t spend extra for this quality (someone pointed out that the award-winning local bistro burger is doused in ketchup and relish anyway), so they really need to connect to New York City’s sophisticated customer base.

a representative from cornell’s cooperative extension

If you don’t understand why grass-fed beef raised on small farms is so fundamentally important from both a dietary and a planetary point of view, I recommend you watch Food Inc. It’s probably the fastest way to get educated on this subject. Almost any of Michael Pollan’s books would also be very helpful. I really believe that those of us who eat meat have a responsibility to treat our animals with love and respect, from the farm to the table.