A few years back, New York magazine announced that eating goat was starting to become a trend. A reader wrote into its website, saying, Here are white people again!!!! Acting like they invented goat meat. That’s pretty funny, and also painfully true. Goat is actually the meat most consumed around the world. We’re behind, people.

Goat is not only delicious, it’s sustainable, higher in protein than beef and lower in fat than chicken. This leanness makes it particularly good when braised or steamed so it doesn’t dry out. Fresh goat is still hard to find in New York City markets, so I imagine it’s not readily available from your average grocer. Try farmers markets or Halal butchers, or look for it on the menus of hip, locavore-friendly restaurants.

At Scarpetta, Scott Conant is known for his roasted capretto—that’s Italian for baby goat aka kid. At Girl and the Goat in Chicago, chef Stephanie Izard—who got into goat (and named her restaurant for it) when she discovered that izard is a breed of Pyrenees goat—uses it in a homemade sausage on pizza and in a ragú with gooseberries and rosemary that she tosses with homemade pappardelle. Now she buys her goat from a local farm (as do I) and goes through seven whole goats each week (I do not).

steam table

My go-to recipe for goat is from Mexican cooking authority Rick Bayless by way of a restaurant in Jalisco that specializes in birria, a savory stew that’s really a bowl of chile-based broth combined with chopped or pulled roasted meat and served with corn tortillas, onions, cilantro and fresh lime. Now my mouth is watering. There are a few easy steps and in the end you wind up with something authentically delicious that you could serve to real Mexicans or a deserving bunch of gringos. I use a deboned leg that’s been tied, but on the bone might be even better (more flavor). First, you steam it, well-wrapped, on a rack in the oven over a watery bed of onions and garlic.

out of the oven

If you’ve eaten some gamey old goat somewhere and are afraid to try it again, be brave. A young goat which has met its end at around 9 months and who, up until then, frolicked happily in green pastures, is sweet, tender and delicious.

spice of life

The next step is to make a wonderful chile sauce rich with sesame seeds and classic Mexican spices, including clove, cinnamon and cumin. I also used Mexican oregano which we grew in our garden last summer and dried. Very satisfying.

chile today

Still a chile virgin? ¡Basta! This is your moment. Latinos are now so prevalent in this country that you can usually find a good selection in most markets, but you can also order them here or here. Many of the Mexican chiles are not super-spicy; it’s more about their complex flavor that includes hints of chocolate, wine and earth.

glazed over

You separate the steamed (and now slightly cooled) meat into big hunks, lay it in a roasting pan and pour most of the sauce over. Then it roasts until the meat is beautifully glazed. While it’s in the oven, you take the remaining chile sauce, the oniony liquid left over from the steaming step, as well as tomatoes, agave and cider vinegar, and blend it all into the sauce you’ll serve with the roasted goat.

shreds of evidence

When the goat is done, you chop or shred it as you would barbecued pork. I like to pour some of the sauce over it, and serve the rest at the table, along with chopped onion, cilantro and some hot sauce, like Tabasco.

a crisp slaw is the perfect side dish

I make a simple slaw to tuck into warm tortillas along with the goat meat. You can find my recipe here. Together, it’s pretty much the perfect combination of salty, spicy, sweet, tangy and savory, with just the right crunch. For dessert, I made a chocolate sorbet spiked with a little cinnamon. It was pretty divine. Let me know if you’re interested in that recipe.

come to the table

Is there anything better than sitting down for a late Saturday lunch with good friends?

“She’s really let herself go.” When I hear someone say that about a woman—usually in a pitying or disdainful tone—it gets my hackles up. First of all, how often have you heard this said about a man? And secondly, shouldn’t letting yourself go be a good thing? Doesn’t it sound wonderfully liberating? Turns out it means she’s no longer living up to the stringent standards of female beauty. She doesn’t tweeze her eyebrows, wear lipstick, starve her body into submission or dye her hair. She’s “showing her age.” To be perfectly honest, I’m usually quite careful about the pictures I post of myself, but today I deliberately chose one in which I’m not wearing a speck of makeup and in which, frankly, I look like what I am: a happy 49-year old who doesn’t smoke or sunbathe, and who gets Botox a couple of times a year. Yep, full disclosure.

photo by José Rodríguez Santalices, circa 1982

As the years have gone by, I’ve let go of the eyeliner, the brown hair and the multiple piercings, but I’ve also let go of the drama and the confusion and the self-doubt. Middle age is kind of great, especially if you decide to embrace it. (But the Botox? you ask. What can I say? I’m a woman of contradictions.)

from more magazine

There are so few women in the public eye willing to represent themselves in an authentic way. Meryl Streep comes to mind. And Jamie Lee Curtis. A few years back she went out of her way to debunk the myth of physical perfection we see every day in the media. She did a shoot for More magazine where she posed first in her underwear, unadorned and unretouched, and then after a glamorizing 3-hour session with wardrobe, hair and makeup pros. Read the whole piece, here. I adore her. These days she’s not even coloring her hair any more. (We used to see the same colorist at Fred Segal in LA!)

some girls

Have you been watching Girls? You can watch the entire first episode, here. It’s the new HBO show produced by Judd Apatow, starring—and directed by—25-year-old Lena Dunham. The daughter of two New York artists, she attended the exclusive Saint Ann’s School in Brooklyn before graduating from Oberlin and making a film, Tiny Furniture, that caused quite a stir on the indie circuit. It’s definitely worth watching. Lena’s work is so honest, raw and true, not to mention incredibly smart and funny. (It bears little comparison to Sex and the City, despite what people have been saying.) She comes across as totally unselfconscious, never shying away from unflattering shots or awkward situations. She’s real. And she gives me hope for the next generation of women coming up. They’re really letting themselves go.

Remember “Singles,” Cameron Crowe’s 1992 film about young love and indie music in Seattle? No? I’m not surprised. It really wasn’t that good. But I’ll never forget how Bridget Fonda’s character, who was hopelessly in love with Matt Dillon’s indifferent rocker, waited in vain for him to say “Bless you” every time she sneezed. In my family we always said “Salud” whenever someone sneezed. To not say it was unthinkable. Like a jinx. What with spring allergies kicking in and everyone getting those changing-season colds, there’s lots of sneezing going on nowadays. If you’ve got a scratchy throat, runny nose or just a general malaise, try this therapeutic treat. It’s a sorbet—from Jeni’s, of course—packed with vitamin C, soothing honey and a fiery combination of ginger, bourbon and cayenne. It feels restorative and it will definitely clear a few things right up.

back to the rind

The recipe calls for fresh orange and lemon juices. I had Cara Cara and blood oranges on hand, and they imparted a gorgeous coral color to the final sorbet. You could definitely get creative with the citrus here.

so grate

My friend Tomo brought many treats back from her recent trip to Japan, including this delicate but strong bamboo brush, ideal for flicking ginger off your grater. I recently picked up some excellent ginger-related tips from this video, and now I always keep a piece in my freezer. Jeni’s recipe calls for powdered ginger, but I used fresh, finely grated. I’m sure this made my sorbet even spicier than hers. What can I say? I have Latin blood.

hot stuff

I use cayenne a lot in my cooking. Just a pinch adds that certain yo no se que (that’s Spanish for je ne sais quoi) to everything from scrambled eggs, salad dressing and granola to chocolate meringue cookies and tequila cocktails.

get the scoop

I didn’t have the liquid pectin called for and the sorbet seemed fine without it, but I’ve learned that Jeni’s recipes are perfectly calibrated to create the best textures, so pick some up if you can. There’s something irresistible about the way this sorbet goes down icy-cool yet spicy-hot. I prescribe it for whatever ails you.

Home again, home again. As much as I love to travel, sometimes I think coming home is the best part. Especially when the transition from balmy Hawaii to balmy New York is so smooth. (Minus the jet lag, of course.) Our trip to the Big Island was extraordinary, and I plan to tell you all about it, but I hit the ground running and have not yet had a chance to sort through all the photos, much less my thoughts. So that’s for next week. For now, a few glimpses of spring’s first signs—it’s arrived fast and furious in these parts—and links to some of my latest discoveries. I’m chomping at the bit to start foraging and have a long list of wild edibles I’m determined to find this season. By the way, I’ve missed you madly and realize all over again what a wonderful creative and social outlet this blog is for me.

the trillium are here

I’m excited to report that two trillium I planted last year have poked through the old pine needles and are making their gorgeously mottled green debut! I’ll definitely show you again once they’re further along.

not boring at all

The hellebores add a quiet drama to the garden early on, opening broad flat flowers in striking greens and purples. I plan to stock up on a bunch more this year as these are so pretty and reliable.

rhubarbarella!

The rhubarb is the first thing to spring up in the vegetable garden, although over-wintered scallions made it through and lovage, collards and anise hyssop are also making a tentative appearance.

wild thing

Garlic mustard (above) and nettles are just beginning to show in wet fields, and asparagus and Japanese knotweed won’t be far behind. I can’t wait to start feasting on the wild tastes of spring! A few of these soft garlic mustard leaves will add a sharp pungency to salads. I also like to make a pesto with it.

road food

I brought a bunch of these kale chips on vacation and they were devoured by our crew of ravenous volcano hikers. Although I like to make my own kale chips, I must admit these are super-crunchy and slathered with addictive nut and spice mixtures in flavors like spicy miso, Bombay ranch (insane) and sea salt and vinegar. New York magazine called them “Doritos for health nuts,” and they are not wrong. Order them here.

We drank oodles of coconut water when we were in Hawaii, and this is good stuff available here.

If these won’t inspire you to get into the garden, I don’t know what will. (You know I have a leather fetish.)

More ceramics porn. Have I mentioned how much I love stoneware??

Blog LOVE. Also this one, again. And this one, always.

Consider this for your next charitable donation.

I would dye for you. More on my latest obsession soon.

Marvel at these twin sisters and their rad embroidery skills.

Have a wonderful weekend! xoxo

I’ve been feasting on blood oranges lately, ever since I ordered 20 pounds of gorgeous Taroccos from here. Many consider this small, thin-skinned variety the best because of its beautifully balanced sweetness and copious juice. It is seedless and incredibly high in vitamin C, with a gorgeous burgundy interior that develops its color when temperatures drop at night. That’s why winter is the time for this fruit, so take advantage now. It’s among the season’s finest treats. Wondering what our little family of two was doing with 20 pounds? Read on.

true blood

For starters, you can stick with the obvious. Chilled and eaten out of hand, a blood orange makes a perfect snack or dessert. A glass of the freshly squeezed juice is a brilliant way to start the day. But this juice is also delicious as a salad dressing, mixed with a little Dijon mustard and olive oil. Try it on a salad of bitter greens and orange sections, like this one, or a typically Sicilian version with slices of orange and fennel. Use the juice as a marinade for scallop ceviche, a refreshing cocktail, a fantastic sorbet (posting later this week) or a glaze for pork roast. I’m certain blood oranges would also be delicious in this flourless cake and this divine ice cream. Because of their smaller size, you should probably use an additional one for these last two recipes.

all in vein

Inspired by this beautiful post, I decided to whip up a batch of blood orange caramels, which involved reducing 3 cups of juice down to 1/3 cup. The resulting syrup is bloody marvelous: deeply scarlet and intensely sweet with a slightly bitter undercurrent. I took it out into the snow to get a photo and the contrast was amazing.

thicker than water

Sadly, I did not watch the caramel mixture carefully enough and it scorched, so all was lost. A crying shame. Rather than attempt a second batch, I decided to make marmalade instead. OK, don’t start to glaze over here. You can make just a small amount to keep in your fridge for yourself. Or you could put aside a bunch of jars that will be like money in the bank—great gifts from here to next Christmas. I consulted this recipe from my pal Julia, as well as this one from my go-to preserving cookbook. The latter calls for Seville oranges which are considerably more tart, so you should decrease the amount of sugar when using blood oranges.

lady marmalade

As you can see from the first photo, above, I like to hand-slice the peel rather than use a food processor. I find this sort of activity to be pleasingly meditative, but the other way is quicker and perfectly acceptable. Either way, just a little blood, sweat and tears and you’re golden.

Last week’s visit to my nutritionist was extremely edifying. Sally is such a font of wisdom and information, I always come away feeling energized, newly motivated and armed with a plan. I brought a food log that chronicled every morsel I had ingested for the week prior and we discussed my ongoing uphill battle with my weight, as well as with a general malaise that I could describe only as “a loss of faith.” Sally advised me on food, supplements, exercise and meditation, and then she practiced iridology. This is similar to reflexology, in which the feet are held to contain a blueprint of the body, except for the blueprint is in the irises. It’s truly amazing what can be discerned through this ancient practice. Sally also uses kinesiology to gauge food sensitivities and supplement doses. If you have no idea what I am talking about or think this all sounds nuts, I recommend you check out Sally’s book, Vibrant Living, and her series of DVDs, which fully explain her holistic approach to health and wellness.

I have been seeing Sally a couple times a year since 1999, and she has helped me enormously with various issues at different times. She introduced me to juicing and to vital supplements like vitamin D, calcium, fish oil and digestive enzymes, and I believe this has helped me maintain my health and balance through many physical and emotional changes, including the deaths of both my husband and my mother in 2003. I have also gone through menopause with very few, if any, symptoms…other than some extra pounds. And I’m working on that.

Sally said that overall my diet was full of good quality food (no surprise there) but she did suggest a few tweaks and told me I could be eating smaller portions. I have been hesitant to do any fasting or reduce my intake drastically because my other guru, Christiane Northrup, warns that this can screw up your metabolism, making it possible to maintain your weight on only 1,000 calories a day! But Sally explained that as long as you eat frequently enough, your metabolism has plenty to go on. She also reminded me that certain foods need to be eaten together in order to be properly digested. And she put me on this thyroid supplement.

Here are some of my takeaways that you might find relevant or helpful:

FOOD

Breakfast options – 1/2 cup yogurt + 1/2 cup berries + 2 tablespoons ground flax seed; 2 whole eggs + vegetables; a smoothie made with coconut water + protein powder + berries

Snacks – vegetable juice; fruit; fruit + cheese; hummus + raw vegetables; nut butter + celery or apple

Meals – salad or cooked vegetables + protein; turkey burger + avocado + tomato + cucumber; 3/4 brown rice + 1/4 cup lentils + 1-2 cups vegetables

What’s important to notice here is how proteins (and grains, if there are any) are always eaten with fibrous and alkaline fruits and vegetables, which really help your body process them properly. Sally recommends eating single proteins, so not consuming multiple meats and cheeses. She also says that if you eat meat, do it with lots of vegetables, never starch. (So long, pasta Bolognese!)

I suppose this regimen could sound horribly Draconian and dull but it hasn’t been bad and, remember, I am trying to drop some pounds. I haven’t been 100% strict—I enjoyed a scoop of sorbet after dinner on Saturday, and I included a little goat cheese in my eggs yesterday morning. But when I made paella, I didn’t eat the rice, and I’ve had no alcohol or flours of any sort.

Beyond the diet, I’ve been doing about 20-30 minutes of meditation every day to help clear my mind and calm my nervous system. I enjoy the guided meditations on yogaglo (an online studio with great teachers and classes), especially those with the super-mellow and thoughtful Harshada Wagner.

And, perhaps most importantly of all, I am doing my best to get an hour of vigorous exercise every day, whether it’s hiking, biking, weight training or a kenpo video. After reading this article in the Times, I realized yet again what a hugely crucial role exercise plays in keeping fit—body and mind.

I’ll leave you with another option for breakfast, a spicy scramble of tofu and vegetables that is probably not something you think of outside the context of some hippie restaurant, but which is actually quite delicious. Free your mind and the rest will follow…

I have an appointment with my nutritionist this week and in preparation have been keeping a food log. It’s made me more aware than usual of precisely what I eat and, though I want to present a realistic scenario, I’ve been on good behavior (most of the time). We had friends over for dinner this weekend and things got a little out of hand, yet still I wanted a treat while watching the Oscars last night. Something creamy and rich but without dairy or eggs, something to lick leisurely off my spoon as I cackled to G about this one’s dress and that one’s cosmetic enhancements. Hollywood on display is a golden opportunity for the ultimate bitch-fest and it requires either gin or ice cream. In the absence of both, try this delightful pudding made with chia seeds. Yes, those of Chia Pet fame. They are intriguingly delicious. It’s a kinder and gentler alternative, though I was neither.

go to seed

Salvia hispanica is a species of flowering plant in the mint family that was cultivated by the Aztecs in pre-Columbian times. The word “chia” is derived from the Nahuatl word chian, which means “oily.” The tiny seeds are rich in omega-3 fatty acids, protein and essential minerals. Chia is still popular in Mexico, especially added to a refreshing limeade. When soaked in liquid, the seeds bloom and develop a wonderfully gummy texture, something like tapioca. Chill this mixture and you have an excellent pudding, without any cooking at all.

This recipe calls for almond milk, but you could use coconut water or hemp milk (or dairy, probably), and whatever flavoring you like—toasted coconut, dates, fresh fruit. I’ve added sorghum as a sweetener, but maple syrup, honey (not too thick), dates, agave nectar or brown rice syrup would all add a touch of sweetness. The pudding is pleasantly slippery and gelatinous, so a crunchy garnish makes a welcome contrast. After eating a modest bowlful, you’ll be ready for your closeup.

I’m really struggling with my weight these days. A doctor friend told me it’s my body’s stubborn attempt to hold onto whatever little estrogen is left. My diet is ultra clean. Dessert is a rare treat and, despite my love of cocktails, I’m limiting myself to just one a week. I don’t get as much exercise as I should—no snow has meant no snowshoeing, for one thing—but I’m hoping that warmer weather will make it easier to get outside and to use our makeshift gym in the (unheated) barn. My biggest challenge is to not loathe my body, which has outgrown much of my cherished wardrobe, but I am trying to practice compassion. I often consult Christiane Northrup’s invaluable book, The Widsom of Menopause, so I know many women go through similar changes, and that they are not irreversible. On the plus side, I now have cleavage. Unfortunately, it’s often in places it shouldn’t be.

any way you slice it

Christiane stresses the importance of eating plenty of food—not starving yourself in an attempt to lose weight—as the body requires enough to keep the metabolism from getting sluggish. I’ve had to come up with some snacks that work (hello, pickles! hello, mushroom jerky!) and the dehydrator is suddenly my new BFF. My recent foray into fruit leather was a success and nudged me in a new direction: apple chips. A dear friend recently mailed me a package full of amazing chiles and spices from here, including habanero sugar with a monster kick that promised to make these an adult snack.

brush with greatness

Not being too familiar yet with the whole dehydrator thing, I wasn’t sure if the sugar would stick to the apple slices once they got really dry. So I decided to brush them with the merest whisper of oil. Really any oil would do for this recipe, something neutral or something more assertive, depending on your taste. I used some pecan oil I’ve had hanging around my fridge, applied with a silicone basting brush. These are easier to clean than the bristle brushes of yore, and don’t retain the smell of garlic butter like those did.

dry spell

As you slice the apples, I recommend dropping them in a bowl of acidulated water so they don’t turn brown. Once you’re all done, spread them out on a clean dish towel that will absorb the excess water.

it all stems from here

Not all your slices will look this beautiful. But some will.

upper crust

Sprinkle just a hint of sugar (spicy or not) and even less of sea salt as flavors will intensify in the dehydrator.

chips off the old…apple

You can dry these to that sort of chamois-like texture, but I prefer them quite crisp with a perceptible crunch. I left mine to dry overnight and went to sleep with the soft drone of the machine wafting into the bedroom, where I lay dreaming of slipping, once again, into my size 6 trousers.

My sister-in-law, who lives in the ‘burbs, mentioned to me the other week that she had ventured into a local Middle Eastern market and been thrilled with what she discovered. Most towns have at least one ethnic market—Korean, Mexican, Greek—serving not only its immigrant community but anyone smart enough to take advantage of its wares. They present a fantastic opportunity to do a little armchair traveling, and to expand your cooking repertoire in the process. When I lived in L.A., I found the most amazing Thai market and, with the help of this extraordinary book, entered a whole new world of fish sauce, palm sugar, wild lime, sticky rice and green papaya. Of course New York City is like one big ethnic market, but when I want Japanese ingredients, I love to take a trip to Mitsuwa. I’ve mentioned this enormous Japanese superstore before—its aisles of rice, sake and bonito flakes, ramen stalls and red bean confections—but thought I would show you some of my bounty from a recent visit. The store is located in Edgewater, New Jersey, and well worth your time even if all you come away with is an automated rice cooker.

shroom at the top

There’s a bounty of mushrooms to choose from, including enoki, fresh and dried shiitake, hedgehog, maitake, shimeji and more, and many of them organic. The produce is all impeccable, though nowhere close to what you see in Japan, where fruit and vegetables are pampered, fetishized and curated beyond belief.

miso ready for dinner

Naturally the miso selection is extensive. Go expecting to be confused and overwhelmed, and don’t expect anyone to help you. Consult a few recipes ahead of time and make a shopping list, so you don’t wander aimlessly. Even if you don’t plan to cook Japanese, there are so many interesting ingredients and prepared foods that will interest you.

giant kelp

Everything you need to make dashi, the stock that is the backbone of all Japanese cooking, is available there, including various grades of kombu (giant kelp) and bonito flakes, the sawdust-like dried and shaved fish that adds such a wonderful smoky taste. Kombu is a superfood, full of marine nutrition and packed with glutamates that add amazingly savory umami impact. Add a 4″ strip of it when cooking a pot of beans, as its amino acids help soften them and make them more digestible.

soy vey

My favorite new find? This delicious surfboard-shaped tofu. I was attracted to the packaging and then read on the label a suggestion that it be eaten with maple syrup for dessert. Sold. It has a rich, creamy texture and a mild, soothing flavor. All for only 60 calories. I drizzled mine with this and never looked back. I think I’m turning Japanese. I really think so.

Those were the days. Sometimes I yearn for the suppleness of youth, its insouciance and capacity for indulgence. But it’s a fleeting moment of fantasy because I belong irrevocably to this moment. I inhabit this skin with a sense of purpose and without regret. There are times for looking back and times for looking ahead, but there’s no time like the present. As Joni Mitchell sings, in her seminal song “Down To You,” Everything comes and goes, marked by lovers and styles of clothes. Things that you held high and told yourself were true, lost or changing as the days come down to you.

The salad days that matter now are on your plate. Channel your creativity and your quest for health into this ageless combination of the raw and the cooked. Interrupt the dreary weeks of winter with refreshing concoctions crisp with cabbage, celery, apple and bitter greens, and punctuated with sweet bursts of citrus and pomegranate. By all means toss in some protein—a grated hard-cooked egg; some oily tuna or smoked mackerel; a crumbly goat cheese or sharp pecorino. You’re looking to create that perfect balance of flavors and textures: crunchy and creamy, sweet and tart, salty and spicy. As in all things, experience enhances your ability and wisdom makes a superb seasoning.

supremely tart

One technique worth learning is how to “suprème” citrus—to cut away the peel and pith, then remove each segment from between the membranes. You lose more of the fruit than you would simply by peeling and sectioning, but you also lose any bitterness. Incidentally, there is important nutrition in the membrane, so it’s best to reserve this technique for special dishes, like desserts, sauces and the occasional salad.

bitter, sweet

A sharp knife is essential here or you will make a mess and get frustrated. If you like, before you begin, you can use a microplane to remove the zest from your citrus. Then slice the rind off the top and bottom of the fruit, exposing the flesh and making it easier to stand the fruit on one end so it will sit flat for easy paring. Cut the peel and white pith away, going from top to bottom and following the curve of the fruit. Trim away any pith still attached. Hold the fruit in your non-dominant hand, and use a paring knife to cut down both sides of a segment, separating it from the membrane. Then just flip it out. When you’ve taken all the segments out, squeeze the juice from the membranes. Use this for sauce or salad dressing, or just drink it up. (You can watch a demonstration of suprèming here.)

zest in show

The distinctive crimson flesh of the blood orange comes from anthocyanins, a family of pigments common to many flowers and fruit, but rarely seen in citrus. These pigments only develop when temperatures are low at night, which is why blood oranges are in season now. They range in flavor from quite tart to very sweet, with the best of them balanced perfectly in between.

in the pink

Pink peppercorns are actually the dried berries from the baies rose plant. They’re cultivated in Madagascar and imported through France, so they can be rather pricey. But I think their sharp, piney flavor and subtle sweetness is worth it. Soft enough not to require grinding, they can be easily crushed with the flat of a knife or in a mortar and pestle. Try them in salads, with goat cheese or baked into your next batch of shortbread.

toss & turn

This salad comes together in just a few moments. Whisk together a mustardy dressing, toast some walnuts, suprème your citrus, dice some ricotta salata and thinly slice radicchio and fennel. Who knew your salad days actually lay ahead?