I once read somewhere that were he to come back as a kitchen tool (literally), David Chang would want to be a chinois. So called because of it’s alleged resemblance to the straw hat worn by the Chinese, the chinois (or chinoise) is an elegant little device that will elevate your sauces and soups to a new level of sophistication. This conical sieve with an extremely fine mesh is used to strain out the very smallest particles from custards, purees, soups and sauces, thus producing a smooth, velvety texture. It’s a rather expensive tool, not to be confused with the cheaper “China cap,” which has much larger holes. The chinois usually comes with a dowel that looks a bit like a pointy pestle, which is what you use to work soft foods through the mesh. It lets you easily press every last bit of juice and flavor from the solids. Some chinois come with a stand that is useful for holding it upright over a pot or bowl. Try using your chinois next time you’re making stock, pureed soup, jelly or custard. You will be shocked (pleasantly) by how refined the texture becomes and, because you can press on any remaining solids, you will notice a deeper, more intense flavor.

Over the summer, my English friend Sarah asked me to make her a classic English-style rice pudding. I think it would be even nicer now, when it's cold out, because it's a very cozy dessert. This simple version is baked rather than made on the stovetop, so it's incredibly easy to throw together. Since I happened to have some fresh red currants on hand at the time, I made this scarlet sauce to go with it. It provides a bright counterpoint to the creamy pudding and the colors look gorgeous together. If you can’t find red currants (fresh or frozen), you can make the sauce with all raspberries or blackberries or a combination. I think it would also be delicious with a blob of lemon curd on top.