The landscape up here is dotted with staghorn sumac, shrubs or small trees with fruits that form dense, cone-shaped clusters that point skyward. The leaves turn amazing shades of red and orange in the fall, eventually dropping off and leaving these dark red pyramids behind. Native Americas combined the leaves and fruit with tobacco for a traditional smoking blend. The fruit can also be made into a tangy and refreshing drink, known as Indian Lemonade.

Sumac is much used in Middle Eastern cuisine, frequently added to hummous, rice and kabobs where it adds a bright, citric note. You’ll see it sold in small tins, a finely ground, garnet-colored powder.

Make sure you have a positive ID on the plant before you start ingesting it. You can always google it (what did we ever do without it?!) for visual confirmation.

To make Indian Lemonade, gently rinse about 4-6 cones. Pour 1/2 gallon of boiling water into a nonreactive container and steep the fruit for up to half an hour; taste it periodically to see if it’s tangy enough for you. Then strain once or twice, and add your sweetener of choice. It’s nice hot or well chilled and served over ice.